New Stretcher Contraption

Hi Everybody,

I’ve only been reading about PE for a few weeks now. I’ve been trying to figure out what type of stretching device to buy, but there was something I didn’t like about all the ones I saw.

So, I finally designed and built one of my own. I’ve been using it for only about 5 days so far, but it seems to work well, and I really like the feeling of using it.

This is a real “contraption” that is a combination of two main ideas:

1) Tom Hubbard’s drumsticks.
2) A stretching “base” inspired by the (very expensive)
PeniStretcher (sold by and
a bunch of other places.

Besides the high price of the PeniStretcher, I didn’t like the fact that it uses a “noose” style head-holder. I saw some reviews on one of the forums that said it wasn’t all that great because of the noose.

Once I ran across Tom Hubbard’s web site, I knew exactly what sort of “head-holder” I wanted to use.

I’ll try to attach a picture of my contraption to this message. This is my first time posting here, so I don’t know if I can attach more than one picture or not.

If anybody is interested, I can describe how I made it, and how it operates (if it’s not completely obvious by looking at the picture). It’s made completely of inexpensive parts available from any decent hardware store (I got all the parts at the local ServiStar).

Now, hopefully, it will be an effective device!

Regards,

Zeke.

:jumpred: WARNING — AND A “DISCLAIMER”:

Please be careful using this device! As with all PE techniques, it is possible to hurt yourself if you are not careful. The stretcher described in this thread is capable of generating some really strong stretching forces. Don’t get carried away and rip your “willie” off your body! :)

Seriously — use caution and moderation — stretch safely. I DON’T WANT TO BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANYONE HURTING THEMSELVES! With this device there is a distinct danger of putting the “sticks” too close to the head of your penis and squeezing them too hard.

Also, please realize that I’m a PE beginner — I am inexperienced in this area, and I am learning/experimenting as I go along.

As I’ve been warned by guys much more experienced than me, you must be careful about applying too much pressure to the top of the shaft where it meets the head. I’m told that there’s a large bundle of nerves in that area and many people think too much pressure there can cause numbness or worse.

Also, there’s a thread on this forum that talks about powerjelq and the possibility of nerve damage by applying too much pressure to the top of the shaft where it meets the head.

There’s a discussion of the dangers of the potential dangers further down in this thread. (About 4 pages down, with the default number of posts per page.)

How does it feel in the wearing? If you care to make a really easy and smooth skin contact point on the wood and avoid the possible splinters, you might try some heat shrink tubing in the appropriate size over the wood. Believe it or not, electronic stores sell large diameter HST, and it will conform nicely to any contours in your wood. Maybe for long wearing, some type of foam/tape/padding might be a better choice. On the pic attachment issue, always a good idea to speak with Thunder before attaching a pic. Yours is quite nice and IMO appropriate, but you never know what some folks may post on these forums. PM him on this issue if he hasn’t contaced you yet. Thanx and keep us posted on the progress with this device. groa

Hey Zeke,

Welcome aboard! Interesting device. I think I would add the foam padding to the dowels and maybe use Groa’s bastard file to kind of get a sweet spot for the top of the shaft near the head. Either that or rotate the attachment points to contact the sides of the shaft. I like the idea of the pivot points on the base. Let us know how it works for you.

I released his attachment last night Groa. Pics/attachments like this are fine. If you want to post a couple more, showing more detail, go for it Zeke.

Thanks for the feedback, groa and ThunderSS.

I’ll post a couple more pictures. I’ve already done some stuff similar to what you’re suggesting.

The attached picture shows just the “sticks”. They’re made of 1/2 inch hardwood dowels.

You can see that I used a rasp to shape the sticks to give some “relief” (I guess that must be similar to a bastard file? Or, maybe what I’m using IS a bastard file?). It’s a little hard to see the exact shape, because I covered the shaped part with some clear plastic tubing.

I originally wanted to use rubber tubing instead of the clear plastic stuff, but couldn’t find any. As it turned out, the clear stuff is a little too slippery, and I kept on having to re-adjust it.

But, I used some medium grit sandpaper and sanded the tubing to “rough it up”. I sanded so the score marks are at 90 degrees to the direction of the pull. This seemed to have done the trick. (This is also why the shaped wood underneath is hard to see —- the tubing isn’t really clear anymore in the sanded section.)

Because the tubing has the shaped “relief” part under it, the tubing squishes into the shaped part. This seems to provide just the right amount of “give” to hold firmly but not too tightly. I was trying to mimic a thumb and forefinger as closely as possible.

So far, this seems to work well, and I don’t feel the need for any extra padding or wrapping. Of course, I have only been keeping it on for maybe 1/2 hour or 45 minutes at a time so far. I’m new to this stuff, you know! I still wouldn’t mind trying some rubber tubing if I can find some the right size.

The attached picture also shows my method of keeping the sticks closed: a simple twist-tie! I find this is easy to adjust, and so far, I haven’t even had to replace it. I just slip it on over the ends. Also, this gives an instant release — just pull it off the end.

The hinge end of the sticks is just held together with some stiff wire twisted together. I tried to find a key ring of the right size, but couldn’t. Besides, the wire can be adjusted to just the right size.

:jumpred: WARNING! Be careful about how tightly you squeeze with the sitcks! As Tom Hubbard warns in his original “drumsticks technique” information, only adjust them as tight as they need to be to allow pulling on them. Also, don’t put them too close to the head of your penis, and if you do so, realize that it can be dangerous and can cause numbness or possibly nerve damage if you squeeze too hard and/or too long just behind the head on the top (where I’m told there’s a nerve bundle).

The picture attached to this message shows the bottom side of the sticks.

Here, you can see the notches that I filed into the dowels so that they don’t slip off the metal “pusher brackets” on the base part. (I’ll add a couple more pics of the base to show the details of the brackets.)

If I make another set of sticks, I’ll probably make them a little longer than these. You can see that I didn’t leave a whole lot of room for the twist-tie. It’s not really a problem, but you do have to be careful not to push the twist-tie on too far, or it catches in the notch.

I was trying to keep the length of the sticks as short as possible, because I wanted to be able to stuff the whole assembly into my sweat pants (which I can do — although it’s easier to wear in the “up” position while walking around — it’s fairly bulky to wear in the “down” position while walking around, but it can be done.

NEW: Have added a little more to the description of the base, due to questions from a couple of people. Also, have added some sketches to the bottom of the attached picture to hopefully clarify how to make the plastic part of the base.
——

This picture shows the base of the stretcher. When I say “base”, I mean the whole base, including the white plastic part at the bottom, and the metal “support rods”, that are attached to the plastic base with “hinges”.

The white round part that forms the bottom part of the base of the is made from a 2-3/4 inch (outside diameter) PVC pipe end-cap.

The inside diameter of the cap measures to about 2-5/16 (so, that’s the outside diameter of the pipe it’s supposed to cap). I just cut it by hand using a hacksaw (to leave the “tabs” for the hinges), and a coping saw (like a jigsaw) to cut the round hole, then shaped it by hand with various files and sandpaper.

The main supports are plain-old size 10 threaded rod (I used 10-24, i.e., 24 threads per inch, because that’s what the store had in stock). The threaded rods are joined to eye-bolts by standard coupling nuts.

The eye-bolts (which form part of the hinges) are basically candy-cane-shaped bolts, but the hooked part of the candy cane is bent all the way around into a closed round part.

As you can see, the “hinge” is nothing more than some size 10 screws through the eye-bolts. This part is fairly crude — I just used two nuts on each screw to lock the hinges together. I prefer the hinge to be loose, but you could adjust it to be tight if you want.

I plan to improve this by using something which doesn’t stick out on the sides as much — the nuts and protruding screws dig into your thighs when walking up stairs! But, that’s all I had available when I threw this thing together.

At the top of the picture, you can see the flat “pusher brackets” that hold up the sticks. These are just some standard 1/2 inch “mending braces”. They were originally 2 inches long, with a hole at each end. I cut off the existing holes, and drilled a hole in the middle. The pusher-brackets fit into the notches in the bottom of the sticks.

All the hardware is standard, inexpensive, zinc-coated stuff. I guess you could get fancy and use stainless steel or brass if you want.

Hey Zeke,
Looks good!
Here is an early Christmas gift for you! If you decide to use these people, you are much better off requesting a catalog than using the online catalog. It has a lot more crap in it and good explanations of what the "crap" actually is. Good place for guys tinkering around with hardware.

McMaster-Carr

This picture shows the stretcher base with a hunk of surgical tubing stuck on top of the threaded rods. This is mainly to keep the ends of the rods from digging into your leg or belly, depending on how you wear it.

The rubber tubing doesn’t provide any sort of support while it’s doing the stretching— the sticks and the threaded rods do that. However, they do help hold the whole thing together while you’re putting it on. Without the tubing, the individual rods will just fall wherever they want to. The tubing keeps them together and makes it easier to but the sticks around the rods.

Originally, I was going to use some clear plastic tubing, but forgot to buy some while at the store — I had the surgical tubing lying around the hous.

Also, in this picture, you can see the wing nuts up against the pusher brackets. This is how you tighten the thing up. Basically, you hold the sticks and bracket up, and “spin” the wing nuts up against the brackets. Then, you can make small adjustments by just using the wing nuts.

This works really nicely to get just the right amount of tension.

I must be stupid how do you use this? Something should be at right angles to my mind

>… how do you use this?
> Something should be at right angles to my mind

It’s hard to tell from the pictures, but the rods pivot relative to the white circular base. You stick your penis through the round white part, and the threaded rods DO stick out at right angles to your body.

Well, actually, they can stick out at any angle to your body. Just like your penis can point up or down, or at any angle between, this thing allows it to move up and down while being stretched.

I’ve attached a sketch of what it would look like if you were wearing it, and looking down between your legs from the top.

Zeke

:jumpred: WARNING! Be careful about how tightly you squeeze with the sitcks! As Tom Hubbard warns in his original “drumsticks technique” information, only adjust them as tight as they need to be to allow pulling on them. Also, don’t put them too close to the head of your penis, and if you do so, realize that it can be dangerous and can cause numbness or possibly nerve damage if you squeeze too hard and/or too long just behind the head on the top (where I’m told there’s a nerve bundle).

now I gettit

:D

I get it as well ,I didn’t seethe clamp part.

Looks good well done .I will try it myself. well done Zeke.

Well done! Keep us informed of any gains!

Zeke

It’s looks great, thanks for sharing it with us all.

Dino

Hi Zeke

Thought I might modify it by having an a angle bar instead of the drumsticks and hook up to my BIB Hanger the DIY mk 2 version,

What do you think?

Great stuff you got me thinking ,thanks

DFB70UK