3D Printing Airtight Vacuum ADS

Hi all,

This is my first post, so I figured I’d save it for something worthwhile. About a year ago I purchased an Ender 3 V2. I have always thought about using 3D printing to create optimized PE devices.

One day, when I was feeling a little antsy, I decided to have a go at 3D printing a vacuum head for an all day, discrete, low-tension ADS. Historically, low tension (ie. 1 rubber band) has been enough to make small gains <= 1cm over a long period of time (6-8 months), but my old design was very uncomfortable and utilized a thick charger cable to grab onto my glans. Not optimal. For my printer design, I used vase mode to rapid-prototype such that the contour on the inside of the print would more or less exactly match the surface of my glans to create no (minimal) air gaps.

I then created a simple chamfered cylinder with a through-hole on top (cord attachment) and cone for an aquarium check valve to slide onto. I used the contour test to remove material from inside the cylinder so when printed, the outside 1. Attaches to a cord, 2. Allows a check valve to be attached, and 3. Has a ring to hold on a silicone sleeve, while the inside mates perfectly to the glans. Much to my dismay, once in use, the vacuum head does not hold a vacuum at all.

I did a test under water, it seems as though air leaks across the surface continuously. I tried adding 1mm to the radius, maximize print temperature, reduce speed, as well as only print using perimeters, but that did nothing to seal the vacuum. I cannot add too much thickness. I have tried sealing it in Elmer’s glue, but it was to no avail.

So, I have a question for the thunders community; anyone here who has had success 3d printing vacuum devices, what’s the trick? This seems very promising, and if I can get it to work, I should be able to wear it as a low tension ADS without having to mess with it too frequently.

I had done some extender adaptations but never a vacuum cup like device. I guess post processing the surface of the cup would be the way to go since fused filament deposition creates a porous volume. So will try to apply XTC-3D at least in the outer area of the vacuum device for a better seal.

What about a nice coat of paint? The clear polyurethane sold for woodworking is usually quite thin and can be had in spray cans or brush-on liquid.

Please, let me know how it goes! I tried using Elmer’s glue, may try some other skin-safe options.

That’s a good idea. I like the idea to use spray on application, it will be much easier to apply an even film on the surface with spray rather than spreading it by hand. Polyurethane is pretty safe when dry, so I think I’ll be okay if there is some skin contact for extended periods of time.

have you consider also to do an acetone vapor bath? that could seal the print if is ABS.

That also looks like it would work, but that’s quite the setup. I think printing ABS for material strength and over extruding + using glue/polyurethane coating is a good route.

3D Printing: Make Water Tight and Air Tight Containers : 5 Steps (with Pictures) - Instructables

Let as know how it goes with that printing setup

I ended up getting a seal using Elmer’s glue and PU. Both worked incredibly well. I think the fact that I’m applying a vacuum helps, since it tries to “pull” the adhesive further into the plastic. One small note to make is there can’t be any non-treated PLA exposed, so if you use a hook through the plastic, the hole for the hook needs to be sealed as well.

Now, all I need to do is purchase some silicon sleeves on eBay and have at it.

Thanks for the update! will you share some pics?

Sure thing! This is my first time uploading a photo but they should be as follows:
1. Section analysis
2. Slicer view
3. Final print

The camera extenuates the layers, but they look a bit better in person. I haven’t applied any sealant layer yet, as this is a new (iterated) print.

Any chance you could share the stl? This looks interesting to test.

Make it airtight by exposing the piece to acetone vapor. It will “polish” the surfaces which will come handy too. Just check on youtube for tutorials it’s really easy to do.

That looks pretty neat MetalMari01, thanks for sharing!

I would suggest trying to dip your print in an oil based poly a couple of times and let drip dry. Should build up a water proof and hopefully air tight coat.

Sure thing. I had to export it as a 7z in order to attach the file here. Note dimensions may be a little too small/big for you or other users depending on flaccid size.

I’ll have to try that. The Elmers glue can sometimes peel off if something scratches it.

Of course!

Yeah, oil poly seems the best way to go as its tougher than the Elmers glue I’ve been using. Although the Elmers glue does give a very good seal, It just takes multiple layers for it to both create that airtight coat on the surface AND be more resistive to abrasion and what not.