The Pipe Stretcher Extender DIY

I call this one the Pipe Stretcher. It is a combination of the best elements of what I have built in the past combined with improvements that I felt some of my other designs where lacking. I worked on it with the mindset of it being the last design I may ever make, so it probably is my swan song in the DIY extender game, as I have reached the goals I had hoped to for length and just don’t PE for length any longer. In a nutshell, this is my best attempt to design a easy to build a quality extender from materials you can find at most home building stores. I’ve put a lot of work into documenting the creation process with words as well as pictures because I do not know how quickly I will be able to respond to individual questions. Life has been a struggle lately… but I digress. To the Pipe Stretcher!

It makes use of a “quick noose” system that I have used in past designs. Yes it’s a noose, but it’s not a traditional noose, don’t worry, we will get in to that later. Unlike commercial extenders, this extender is not intended in any way to be hidden beneath clothing. That is for two reasons, one, I believe PE should be closely monitored at all times and secondly, due to the do it yourself nature of the project, easy to find and easy to build with materials can’t compete with custom molded plastic parts for size resulting in a larger end result. That, and nothing in my wardrobe could conceal even the smallest sized extender (except for this) so I scratched that off the list of things to worry about years ago.

Below is the construction tutorial, followed by the calibration, sizing and use of the device. Sorry, I do not have a budget price of what it will cost since I had a lot of the materials around from other projects but I purchased everything I used from the Home Depot, and most of the materials are found in the plumbing section.

The biggest improvements from previous designs are:

• The springs have been completely hidden.
• The noose more easily removes/attaches for initial sizing, cleaning, or replacement.
• Wider, more comfortable base.
• The base is now made from easier to find fittings.
• The alternate head configuration allows for a much greater range of sizes.
• Looks cooler.

These are the materials I used, mostly because it is what I had on hand or access to. I did my best to make use of materials that are fairly easy to find at your local hardware store but there very well may be better alternatives out there.

• 6 - 1/2” PVC 90degree elbows
• 2 - 1/2” PVC Caps
• 1/2” PVC pipe (12” length)
• 4 - Bi-fold closet door springs
• Chicago Screws - Enough to make two posts, both at least the same length as your BPEL (two “end” pieces and various extension pieces)
• 2 - Machine screws (same sized thread as Chicago screws 8/32”)
• Latex tubing (6” length) - for noose (shown in image is 3/8”, but I used 1/4” tubing in final as a personal preference)
• Rigid 3/8” tubing (12” length) Rigid enough to support springs and wide enough to slide over Chicago screw posts)
• Velcro tape (12” length) - Not sticky backed Velcro tape, but the kind with hooks on one side, fuzz on the other
• PVC Glue (or any glue that will bond to the plastic PVC)
• Black electrical tape
• Hot glue gun
• Various drill bits (just slightly larger than the materials they are matched up with in the picture)

Start by cutting three pieces of the 1/2” PVC pipe 1.5” long. Apply glue to the pieces and place them between two PVC 90s. Make sure they are aligned squarely, and that the fittings butt up tight to each other. I used a little extra glue so the gap between fittings could be filled in by the dry glue and sanded nearly smooth later. Repeat this process for two more C pieces for a total of three.

After the glue is set and dry between the fittings, we will make some marks that will become the posts. I used the seams on the fittings as guides to mark the same on each side. Use a drill bit slightly larger than the machine screws and drill top and bottom of both sides of one the C pieces. Ideally, you want it as snug as possible, I actually drilled the bottom and used a tap set to add threads to the upper holes, but being plastic, drilling a small enough hole that you can just force the threads of the machine screws through (by screwing them with a screwdriver) should work well if you don’t have a proper 8/32” tap set. Using a larger bit, drill halfway through the bottom holes to allow for countersinking the head of the screw. Again, the bottom hole can, and should be just loose enough to allow turning the screw, but certainly make the top holes as tight as possible for stability of the posts later.

Wind the screws in and cut them down if necessary so a Chicago screw extension can wind down entirely onto it, effectively securing the bolt to the base on each side.

Cut two more sections of 1/2” pipe about 1.5” long and push them into the fitting ends of the base. I didn’t glue mine, just forced them in securely. This will form the connection for the removable half of the base. The only reason I didn’t glue them was since the half of base uses friction to stay attached I worried that over time and continued attaching and removing of the base the fittings might loosen, at which point one could simply cut some fresh 1.5” long pieces to keep the base in place.

Using one of the two remaining C pieces, mark for holes where the posts will fit through. As seen in the image, I eye-balled as best I could from front, then from the back, and averaged the difference from the top, and also used the seams on the fittings as guides. Using the drill bit that is slightly larger than the Chicago screw extensions, making the holes large enough to easily slide along the posts.

Next, drill the two caps with holes large enough to easily fit over the rigid 3/8” tubing, this will be your largest holes. Cut two pieces of the 1/2” PVC pipe roughly 2.25” long. These will fit between the C piece and the caps and conceal the posts and springs later on. In this configuration glue is not necessary for these fittings, but you can use a small amount of glue of your pieces don’t fit securely enough. For the alternate configuration, glue will be required at this step, and the larger holes will be on the C piece and the post sized holes will be drilled on the two caps (I will discuss that in more detail later).

I made use of the seams in the fittings as guides for marking and drilling holes but since the drilling is now done, we can file and sand down everything as smooth as possible. The smoother the better. The fittings can sometimes come with some pretty sharp edges so this is an important step.

Cut the Velcro tape along the length of it at a width that will easily thread into your choice of latex tubing, I used about a 7” length of Velcro, and about a 5” length of latex tubing. This may take a try or two because getting it through the tubing can be a struggle if it is a little too wide. I used electrical tape along the length to protect the latex tubing from the sharper edges of the Velcro tape.

If needed, use a small wire to fish the Velcro through the tubing.

Use some of the remaining Velcro to create a connection pad on the head of the extender. I did it fuzzy side out and secured it with a hot glue gun. If you were looking at the extender head from the side like a clock, I glued my pad between the 7:00 and 10:00 points.

To assemble the extender, you will need to build your posts from Chicago screws and slide on the head piece, two springs on each side, then the 2.25” pieces of pipe with caps on each (these may be glued together from a previous step. either way, the springs should fit through the large holes in the cap.

Now cut two pieces of the rigid 3/8” tubing long enough so that when fully assembled, the tubing will keep the springs within the pipe fitting enclosure. You can find this measurement by attaching the posts to the base, and with the head piece assembled, measure the length of post between the cap and the base, then add a few millimeters.

The last step is to attach the noose, basically just stick it on, Velcro to Velcro onto the pad we glued on earlier, hooks side down onto the fuzzy pad. It will likely need some adjustment later, but that is as easy as peeling it off and attaching it again.

A couple of options, or after thoughts…

A small helper piece can be cut to hold the extender in a compressed position to make putting it on easier. Compress the fully assembled extender and measure the distance between the top of the rods and the top of the compressed head of the extender. Then cut a piece of rigid 3/8” tubing to that length and cut a small section out of it lengthwise, enough to make it easy to slip on and off the rods, but not too much that is will pop off when under some tension.

The second image shows some possible solutions a possible problem I’ve run into with the aluminum Chicago screws and the springs. I have seen brass and other material screws which would negate this issue, but I already had the aluminium on hand so I used them. Friction of the head piece sliding up and down the posts can create a fine dust which may or may not become an issue. I found if the sanded fittings are too rough, they collect dirt quite easily. Ideally, buffing the plastic after sanding or painting the plastic with a paint that will bond to plastic might also be a good idea. Shown are some options for protecting the rods from the friction. A length of packing tape, carefully applied to the top portion of the rods, or a correctly sized drinking straw may work to prevent the friction as well. I have used the tape for now and seems to be working ok.

The third image shows the alternate mode for the head piece. Because of the way the springs are compressed, the standard design allows up to a certain length and beyond but how close tou can get to the base is limited by the considerable height of the head piece. The alternate design allows the attachment area to be much closer to the base. It is essentially just the standard head flipped upside down, same materials, same lengths. Everything else will work the same using this alternate configuration, with the exception of the rod length will need to be longer, and the different sized holes that are drilled in the top and bottom of the standard head will now need to be switched as well. The caps will be drilled to accommodate the rods and what was the top of the head in the standard mode will now need to be drilled to accommodated 3/8” rigid tubing. Also, in standard mode, glue between the C piece and the caps is not necessarily needed if the fitting fit snugly, however in alternate mode the pieces will need to be glued.

Depending how smooth the gap between fittings on the head is you may want to place some tape along the point where the two fittings meet. I didn’t require anything but a smooth vinyl or fabric tape might work well.

There you have it, easy as that. :-) Not too hard to build I hope.

Next step is calibrating the springs and sizing the noose.

Calibration of the device is fairly simple. Once constructed, simply place the device onto a typical bathroom or kitchen scale. Some digital scales will calibrate themselves when you turn them on, so put the device on first then turn on the scale so the scale reads zero with the device sitting on it (otherwise, if you have an analog scale, remember the weight it says the device is and subtract that number from your readings later).

Push down on the head of the device, compressing the springs, until the scale reads 1 pound. This is where you subtract the weight of the device if necessary, so if you device read 0.2 lbs. when you put it on the scale, push down on the extender until the scale reads 1.2 lbs. Using a marker, make a small mark on the 3/8” tubing at the closest point you can to the head of the device. Then push the head further down to 3 or 5 pounds and mark it again on the tubing. What we are doing is creating a guide onto the tubing that will later tell us how much force the springs are under by which line is closest to the head.

The same could be done with a fishing or luggage scale. hook the end of the scale to the head and pull the fishing scale down while holding the base secure, marking the tubing as you go. Stacking free weights of known values could also be another alternative way to gauge the tension on the springs.

There are two aspects to correctly sizing the device. First, is correctly sizing the noose. Once it is sized correctly, it will not need to be readjusted to use the device multiple times. Second, is sizing the rods and 3/8” tubing to apply the desired amount of tension to accommodate your individual length.

To size the noose look closely at the attached images. The correct fit of the noose is designed to mimic the way your hand holds in an OK grip making use of the curved surfaces of the pipe to better spread out the force of the grip. A rigid non elastic noose is required to mimic this effect. Using a noose that is too loose will result in something reminiscent of a traditional extender noose system, which is not ideal and not spoken highly of by many, it relies too much on the narrow tubing and is uncomfortable applying any reasonable amount of tension. Using a noose that is too tight is obviously not ideal either.

The right sized noose will evenly balance the head of the penis between the noose and the curved surface of the device as shown in blue in the second image. It will take some trial and error to get it right, you may need to shorten the Velcro (and cut more of the latex tubing and tape away, etc.) that is why the design makes use of Velcro for easy tweaking of the noose, but will hold it securely once you commit to that fit.

The next step is to size the rods so that the desired amount of force is applied while wearing the device. This too may take some trial and error to get fit to your individual size, but once you are in that range, it is easy to move forward form there. Put the device on, or try to, it may be too big or too small to fit correctly now. See the next post for a demonstration of how to put it on. If you are struggling to get it on the 3/8” tubing that we marked with the spring tensions may need to be shortened to allow more free space between the base and the head. Essentially what you want to do is determine the correct amount of 3/8” tubing to put between the base and the springs to create the amount of tension you want at the maximum stretch of you penis. I would shoot for around 2 or 3 lbs. to start. Depending on your penis size, and the sizes you used to construct the device, you may need to cut out or add small sections of tubing to the bottom of the rods (as seen in the third image) until you are getting the force you need for your length.

Once you have figured out the length you need you can replace the small little sliced pieces with one solid piece of equal length slid down along the rod. As you grow, you will need to repeat this process to account for your new length. If you grow a 1/4” you will need to add a 1/4” spacer to maintain the same amount of tension as before.

Hopefully, along with the images supplied that is not as confusing as it probably sounds. ;)

Putting a correctly sized device on should be pretty easy once you do it a few times it can be done in a matter of seconds. If you are experiencing difficulty at this point, perhaps something is sized wrong.

The device works, much like a strap wrench, it will fit loosely in one position, but when turned to the proper position, will snug up to the correct dimension as shown in the first image.

To put it on, compress the head of the device and attach the helper piece to one of the rods to keep the springs compressed. put the head of the penis through the noose and align it horizontally, rods facing straight out from the body, connect the base section to the device and remove the helper piece, watch for small folds of skin under the noose and head piece, you might not notice them at first but they may cause pain if left under tension. Use your hand to slowly release the tension, don’t just pop the helper piece out and let things snap into place. Looking at the tubing, the tension should read 2 or 3 lbs. and the head should be balanced between the noose and head and centered left to right on the head piece as well. I actually wear it with briefs on and my penis out the hole in the front in my briefs. The way the base connects together does cause the risk of hair getting caught but a neatly trimmed area will minimize that “risk” considerably.

Attached here is a safe for work version of the application of the device. Click here for an animation of me using the Pipe Stretcher Extender DIY in person. Warning… here there be dragons… and by dragons, I mean a penis. ;)

There is some debate and experimentation about stress relaxation use for extenders, in the past, my experience has made use of a device applying constant tension for the entire session. However, if you want to use this device in this way, creating a stress relaxation feature is as simple as applying a spacer piece at the top of the rods so that the device will extend you to a given length, not a given tension.

There it is. I hope my instructions were clear-ish.

When I was still actively PEing, I would use the extender at about 5 lbs for roughly an hour session, closely monitoring and taking quick breaks every 15 minutes or so. Getting in and out is pretty quick once you get used to it so these little breaks are worth the effort for safety sake. Most days I would do an hour session in the morning and an hour in the evening.

I am happy to answer any questions but with the way things have been going lately, I can’t promise I will get back to you quickly but I will do my best.

Good luck and thanks for reading! :)

This looks amazing but doesn’t look as if it can be worn inside the clothing as quite bulky.