Cylinder Diameter Question

Hi all….New to this and had a quick question on cylinder sizing. I’m at a 5.5 inch circumference right now. The chart from LA Pump suggests the 1.75 inch diameter tube. I’m interested in going for long term girth gains. As I’m right on the border, should I upsize now to the 2 inch version of the tube in order to emphasize girth and save having to purchase a second tube. Maybe I’m being a bit over optomistic on potential gains here but I figure this would be the place to ask. Great forum and keep up the good work!

At 5.5” I’d definitely go with the 2” tube. A 1.75” tube will give you no room for growth. You could also try a 1 7/8” tube from someplace like nwpumpworks that sells in 1/8” increments. I’m 5.75” girth and I pack a 2 1/8” tube 1/3 of the way up right off the bat, and more than half way up after several short sessions (20 minutes total).

Hi,

I’ve been pumping for about 1 year now with not so great results.
I started with an Kaplan starter kit, including a 2” cylinder (inside diameter).
My unpumped erect girth is about 4,9” midshaft.

I only pack the first 1,5” of my cylinder after an one hour session. The head and 1” below is also packed, the midshaft not.

My question is should I try a 1,75” tube for maximum girth gains and should I buy one with straight walls or a tapered cylinder?

Can it be that a bigger cylinder is hindering me from getting girth gains or slow down the process?

Please answer my questions! About 2 weeks ago I changed to a CTC pump.
Perhaps this will help me, too.

I think you’d be better off with a 1.75 cylinder than the 2.00 you are using.

What is your pumping schedule - like, how many days On and how many Off each week? And, how long are your individual sessions and are you doing manual exercises between sets?

Hi avocet8,

thanks for your answer!
I try to pump about 5 to 6 days a week for 1 hour each day. Sometimes I pump twice a day for an hour. I don’t do any manual exercises, but next week I want to add some powerjelqs (about 50-100) before pumping.

Should I buy a tapered or a straightwall cylinder?

To add to his question, what are the purported benefits of a tapered cylinder? Tapered as in narrower at the base? Seems screwy to me.

Seems screwy to me, too, hobby. The only advantage I can think of to tapering at the base is to squoosh up tissue from there to help distribute it more evenly along the shaft, if you happen to be thick-based.

I wonder if the taper is a result of the technique used to flare the rim. If keeping the walls straight is more costly/time-consuming, this could explain why straight-walled tubes are more expensive.

Or it could be the other way around, like how unleaded gas cost more than regular. It always bothered me they charged more to not add lead - kind of like selling a cake without frosting for more than one with it.

X-Ben, my tube is straight, and I wouldn’t want one any other way with the exception of a 2-stage for pumping the whole package at once.

I have also recently purchased Kaplan’s starter kit, 2” diameter. Although I have room to spare at the base and midshaft, my head gets stuck in the cilinder when fullly erect. (because the cilinder is not evenly shaped, it gets tighter towards the end). Does anyone else have such problem where head gets stuck, I have a feeling that if the cylinder was wider I could pump it more length wise. It pisses me off to purchase something and realize that I purchased the wrong size. Any suggestions here?

Ok, the Kaplan tubes are tapered toward the top, and appear to be a strange, one-sided taper. Is this correct? See the attached picture from the Kaplan site. All the other tapered tubes I’ve seen are narrower at the bottom.

drive2000, what are your erect girth measurements at base, midshaft and head?

That is it exactly. It’s cheaper and quicker to make a flaired tube. To make a flaired tube, all they do is heat and bend the bottom. To make a straight-walled tube they need to epoxy a separate piece of acrylic on the bottom, wait for it to set, and then come back and buff the inside rim. It’s only slightly more expensive material wise to construct a straight walled tube, but a lot more labor intensive. That’s why they cost more.

The only real advantage of a flaired tube is that the narrower bottom provides a better seal, and helps prevent balls from being sucked in for people buying oversized tubes in an attempt to stretch their investment further.

If cost is no object, I see no reason to purchase a flaired tube. Just purchase the best fitting straight-walled tube and upgrade as needed, and/or get one of those straight-walled tubes with the deluxe cushy silicone seal from pumptoys.com.

Here are the bases on straight and tapered nwpumpworks tubes.

Kaplan tubes are strange. I have no idea why anyone would want it narrower at the top unless they were intentionally trying to create the traffic cone effect. The other drawback of that design is that it could cause the head to pack first and block off the vacuum to the rest of the penis.

Hey Zbig —— Welcome! And my suggestion is go with a two inch and try this one by Vacu-Tech it is very good.

ThickWall Cylinders for Extra Length
Recommended for Advanced and Experienced Pumpers Helps Stretch Suspensory Ligament
High Quality Clear Lucite
Custom Sized for Your Current Dimensions
Produce Immediate Expansion
Cylinder Wall is a Full ¼ Inch Thick
Comfortable & Easy to Use
Smooth Curved Opening
More Room for Thickness Stretch

http://www.vacu tech.com/produc … r-thickwall.asp

I like it a lot better than the tapered and the flared. Good luck