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Power Jelq versus Hands

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Power Jelq versus Hands

What do you guys prefer? Has anyone tried the device? It’s all I’ve been using since I started. Do you think I would’ve gotten better gains if I used my hands? I’ve tried doing it with my hands, and I just can’t get the same intensity or consistency.

Prickle,

I use both the PJ and my hands. When home and using the PJ, I can get an intense pull on my dick. But when I’m at work in the men’s room, it is convenient to do manual dry jelqs throughout the day. I like the variety and versatility of multiple techniques/devices. I’ve gotten good gains from both methods.

Peforeal

I myself have never used one.

For others reading this, I read Memento’s reply to a similiar question you asked was :

I have a power jelq and don’t use it. I don’t think it can be considered as better than jelqing by hand. Some people find that keeping a good grip up is hard and in this way it helps but if you have a good quality grip its unlikely to improve on manual methods. Some use the power jelq because they get a better grip on the internals of the shaft and can more effectively apply a stretch whilst jelqing (though this is quite possible with manual methods).

Just came across this, this guy seems to be a
heavy duty PJer

Myself, I only use manual dry jelqing as a warmup prior to using the power-jelq combined with pumping and to maintain good blood circulation throughout the day. I prefer the power-jelq as it is easier to keep consistency in pressure when jelqing and I find it provides a much more intense engorgement. I guess all in all it depends on how tired your hands get and the amount of intensity you want to apply to your workout.

From the mouth of a PE Pioneer, “Any stretch is a good stretch”

-Mistered


Link to the DLD Blasters Soon to be Triple

cheap power jelq

My power jelqer is a home canning device called a jar lifter, or sometimes canning tongs. I got mine at a gourmet cooking store down the street.

Here’s a site where you can order online. A google search for “jar lifter” gets tons of sources.

It works very well for me, and is part of my jelq routine, along with dry and wet hand jelqs.

Aside from the foam cushions on rollers of the offical Power Jelq I’d like to know the difference between the product that cost me four dollars and the $40 alternative, but I’m not about to spend the money to find out. Maybe someone who already has the expensive version could get the cheaper one too and see if there is much of a difference. (?)

As for the foam on the rollers, I just wrapped them with cloth first aid tape and now I have nice cushioned rollers that provide a nice grip on my penis.

The other modification I made was to the holes in the rollers. I took off the rollers and reamed them out (sorry for the painful term) a little so they rolled a little better up and down my dick.

Ike, I made my own power-jelq just asyou did using the jar lifter. However, for the rollers I built up the thickness of the plastic handles withelectrical tape enough that I could slip on the 1/2” foam pipe wrap. A 36” length of pipe wrap only cost me .35cents and I get 6 sets of foam rollers out of it. Cut the foam to 3” lengths squeeze the foam to open the split,not so much that you open all the way through the wall thickness, take a Q-tip apply contact cement to both sides, let it dry for a few minutes and close the seam and presto magnifico!!…., you nowjust slide it onto the plastic handles and you’ve got a set of good foam rollers for a cost of about 6cents for the pair(beats the hell out of paying what they charge for rollers. There you have it, cheap, easy to make, and easy to replace.

A note on the rollers that you reamed…, if they turn when you apply a jelq this is a mistake and you are defeating the purpose of the device. If you look in this forum and the pj forum under maintenance you will see why.

Thanks b1nzen48

I just looked at the Power Jelq forum — the one at betterman.com — and see now that the rollers aren’t supposed to move. That was helpful. My device is working okay for me, but I think I’ll either figure out a way to get the rollers to lock again or I’ll invest another big four bucks and buy a new one. I remember the rollers did lock like the Power Jelq’s do when I first bought it.

And your foam rollers sound easy to make. Do you use the softer close cell foam pipe wrap — the stuff that’s almost like neoprene — or the firmer stuff with the bigger cells? It seems like the latter would be a little rough after a few hundred pulls.

Ike, I use the softer closed cell foam simply because I think it conforms better to the shape of the penis, allows you to apply more pressure to a jelq, and it keeps you in the comfort zone. On average I will get about 5-6 weeks out of one set of rollers using a 5on 2off routine, which ain’t too bad… half a year’s supply of rollers for 35 cents!!!!

Goodluck and post back to let us know how your rollers turn out.

Also, If it only costs$4.00 for a jar lifter I wouldn’t worry about trying to fix the rollers, I think it will be easier to start with a new one, and besides if something happens and you can’t reform the tongs you’ll already have a backup set.

“Cut the foam to 3” lengths squeeze the foam to open the split,not so much that you open all the way through the wall thickness, take a Q-tip apply contact cement to both sides, let it dry for a few minutes and close the seam and presto magnifico!!…., you nowjust slide it onto the plastic handles and you’ve got a set of good foam rollers for a cost of about 6cents for the pair”
—-b1nzen48

Can you explain this again? I’m still a little foggy on how this is done. If you glue the foam on, how do you get it off when it’s time to replace them? Wouldn’t that glue being in contact with the penis and lubrication cause something bad to happen? What you’re talking about sounds like a good idea since I own a PowerJelq and replacing the rollers this way would make my life easier. My apologies to PowerJelq Inc.

OK Prickle, lets see if I can lift the fog for you. When you get your piece of 1/2” foam pipe wrap you will see that there is a cut down one side that only penetrates about half of the wall thickness. After you have cut a 3” length of the foam you just squeeze it enough to open the cut to allow you to put a layer of contact cement on both sides of the cut with the Q-tip, hold it open until the glue is dry, then close the seam. There is no glueing the foam to the roller shaft, instead, by building the thickness of the roller shaft up with the electrical tape you should be able to slip the foam over the roller shaft without the foam spinning freely on the shaft. If it spins on the shaft add more tape. I haven’t experienced any kind of irritation whatsoever from using the contact cement and I’m on my third set of rollers, but if it is of great concern to you I suppose you could use a latex or water based contact cement instead. Hope this clears the fog Prickle, but if it doesn’t let me know and I’ll try again, post back anyway as I would be happy to know you understood this explanation.

Thanks. I guess it’s because I’ve never actually seen the kind of foam tubing you’re talking about. I’m sure once I get some and see what you mean, everything will make sense. Thanks for the help/explanation.

Prickle

Hey b1nzen48,

Thanks for the idea. I made a power jelq today. Home Depot carries split, pre-glued pipe insulation. Just peel off the protective tape and stick the seam together. Very convenient. The brand is Armacell. $1.59 for 6 feet.

For those wanting more info, the label on the good stuff says:

armacell
Self Seal Pipe Insulation

Fits:
1/2” Copper, 3/8” Iron

Since it is split completely through (other pipe insulation isn’t), you don’t have to remove the handles from the canning tongs for test fitting or installation.

Tape the handles up enough to provide a snug fit. This is a one-time ordeal requiring less than 5 minutes. Then peel the covering off the split ends of the foam and press them together. Done.

If I were in a rush, I could remove the old foam and cut and install new in less than a minute.

I was concerned at first that the glue may not hold firmly enough, but it’s very robust, certainly the equivalent of contact cement. I tried to pull it apart. The foam rips before the seam separates.

Excellent Hobby, the preglued pipe insulation, if a guy can find it in his area will obviously without a doubt be a lot more convenient and easier to work with. Kudos to you dude and thanks for the post.

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