Oh looky here! The CCH3.

I can hang in the Captn’s Wench for about a whole 20 min. set, but until I made my own Captn’s Wench last month, I didn’t realize why I had to remove my CHICKENCHOKER HANGER ( when ever I used it ) every 12 min. to replenish blood flow to my cold dickhead. Although more comfortable than the original version ( seen here:
My Two-dollar Chickenchoker Hanger!! ),

Version 2 ( CCH2 ) didn’t have flattened surfaces like the wench for that broad contact point to allow more free circulation….
:-k
( See the discussion for CCH2 from mid-page down in this link:
My Two-dollar Chickenchoker Hanger!! )

And then, like alien mutation, spawned the CHICKENCHOKER HANGER VERSION 3.

I was always impressed at the speed of applying and taking off CCH1 & CCH2. A few seconds to put it on and 1 second to take it off, which was helpful when it came time to replenish blood. But now that speed is no longer necessary when using the CCH3 since you can leave it on for your entire 20 min. set and beyond. This is due to the over 1” of flattened surface contact – thanks to the Wench for the idea of using Grippers. However that speed is extremely helpful when someone walks in on you – BOOM it’s off.

One last thing before getting started. Using the CCH3 is totally silent. You can hang weights with your roommate in the next room without them hearing a thing. And once again, if you hear them coming – BOOM it’s off.

:thumbs:

Parts:

1. 2 segments of 1-inch diameter PVC pipe. Each segment is 3” long. These are the pillars.
2. 2 strands of equal length cord. Minimum of 18 inches. I use that colorful Mason nylon line you
get at Home Depot.
3. A small ring to hold your S-hook.
4. A pack of 4”x 5” Grippers ( from Lowe’s ). You’ll only need 1 sheet of this.
5. 12 screws ( #8 X 3/8” round heads, comes in a pack of 14 at Home Depot ).
5. Superglue.

Tools:

1. A power drill
2. A carving knife

OK lets make this thing.

1. Cut out a 1” wide by 2” tall rectangular window dead center of each pillar.

2. Bevel the longitudinal edges so that the gripper pads lay flat against them.
Notice the beveling in the photo.

3. Pick 1 and only 1 of the longitudinal edges of each pillar as a reference to drill the cords holes
with.

4. Mark a dot between the outer edge of the pillars and the chosen edge. Notice the red dots in
the photo. It would not hurt to drill closer to the window rather than the edge but try to get it
right in the middle.

5. Drill straight through to the other side. Be careful here. You’ll want this as centered as
possible so pause and re-aim after going through the first wall.

6. You may wish to paint and maybe epoxy it here but that’s just for looks.

7. Cut 2 sheets of Gripper pads. Each sheet is 2”x 3”. The 2” width should be a perfect fit for the
2” height of the cut-out window. In fact, the pad should be able to chill out just like in the
photo.

8. Remove the backing off the pads and center the pads on the windows as much as you can.
This takes some experienced eyeballing.

9. Screw the pads in place with 3 screws on all 4 gripper edges longitudinal to the pillars.

10. Locate the front cord holes. These are the pair of holes that if you were to run an imaginary
longitudinal line to connect them, this line would NOT cross a Gripper pad. This is the front
of the pillars which would be facing the weight you will hang with.

11. Superglue or melt the ends of the nylon cords so it doesn’t fray for easy penetration.

12. Run the first cord through both pillars and the ring as in the photo. I used a basic square knot
on the anchoring edges. Each cord ends at the pillar it started with.

13. Run the second cord through as in the photo.

Here is the blowjob-by-blowjob…er, I mean, blow-by-blow account of the threading process:

Facing the standing pillars in the photo,

the first cord is knotted at the front upper left hole and goes to
the back upper left hole to the
back upper right hole to the
front upper right hole to the
ring to the
front lower right hole to the
back lower right hole to the
back lower left hole and knotted
at the front lower left hole.

The second cord is then knotted at the front upper right hole and goes to
the back upper right hole to the
back upper left hole to the
front upper left hole to the
ring to the
front lower left hole to the
back lower left hole to the
back lower right hole and knotted at the front lower right hole.

Do not superglue the knots yet.

14. Hook the S-hook on.

15. Look at the attachment and see how even the pillars are horizontally as you pull on the S-
hook. You may hold the pillars with your other hand in different ways but the important thing
here is to make sure the cords are exactly even so that 1 of the pillars isn’t sitting lower on
your dick while in use. This tends to bend your dick to the high pillar side. Not sure if this is
harmful and it may even grip your dick better, but it just looks awkward.

16. Make the necessary adjustments to the knots to get the pillars exactly even. This is the hard
part. You may want to first superglue 3 of the knots and adjust with the last one, and then
superglue that last knot.

In this unpainted prototype, notice the diamond shape that the cords make. This is the cord-translation-grasping technology that makes it work like a charm. The gripper pads were a bit off center of the window in this prototype ( too far back to be a model ) so pay no attention to those screw positions here.

Going with my dimensions ( 4.5” flaccid stretched ), I set the CCH3’s back end about an inch from the base of my dick, pre-stress the S-hook so I can see how the pillars rotate as they clamp on
( “wax-off” rotation as in the Karate Kid movie ) and assist in the final rotation for a snug fit.

One final note: when using versions 1 & 2, I had to use a second wrap on my dick to keep it from sliding to the head. With the CCH3 and so far with 12 pounds, no need for that second wrap. It stays in place.

BOOM it’s on.

BOOM it’s off.

WOW…..great idea.

I will try this hanger by myself !!!!

Greetings.

….sorry, but 1 question:

Why did you put out a window on each pillow ???

I’d imagine it’s for better circulation and grip aid.

Very nice job chickenchoker. I like the simplicity of using gravity to grip (no messing with screws) and the fact that it goes on and comes off so quickly.

Well done :thumbs:

I put a window on each pillar so that they have a flat surface to grab your dick with.
These windows are covered by the gripper pads which grab over an inch of your dick as you hang.

By the way, if you already have a Captn’s Wench and don’t need the extra speed of use and have enough privacy, you don’t need to make a CCH3 - their both equally as comfortable, unless you do what I do and convert that Wench to a BTC ADS to supplement your hanging as in this link.

Wench BTC ADS

It’s a great 1 - 2 punch.

:)

After reading a while and letting your design filter through my thick head I think I will give it a try. First dumb question: which side of the Gripper do you use on the surface that faces your dick??

The Gripper has a sticky backing side and a textured rubbery side.
It’s the textured rubbery side.

THE TECHNICAL SUPPORT DEPARTMENT FOR THE CCH3 IS NOW OPEN.
:)

Man this looks so great, but i hate having to buy a piece of 10’ pvc to make the hanger. And I hate having to work with knives as well (really bad experience). But it looks so simple and comfortable, aww I guess I’ll make one for the hell of it. Great work CC!

Hi there CC,

WOW, that is good. All this time I always thinking of doing some hanging to help my flaccid length but too lazy to make a hanger. After seeing your “Simple but Good Invention” I think I will give it a try, I will try to find the stuff needed this weekend:) . Thanks CC. I’ll post you questions if I have problem with this OK?. Seeya:)