Originally Posted by LucasBS
The opening thread is confusing to me, specially because of the non metric units and the many different pipes, so I ask:
The ideal inner diameter;
The ideal outer diameter;
The ideal length.
(All that assuming the sleeve is a perfect hollow cylinder)
My sleeve that came with an ADS kit is 3 mm thick, has a smaller diameter bit and a wider bit.
Smaller diameter part has an inner diameter of 2 cm, an outer diameter of ~2,6 cm, which yields 3 mm wall thickness.
Wider diameter part has 3,8 cm outer diameter, 3,2 cm inner, and 3 mm thickness.
In between is a ramp with unknown measures, but it’s probably matching widths, with 3 mm wall thickness.
My sleeve is about 8,1 cm long total, with the smaller diameter bit about 5,6 cm long which widens in 2 steps to a wider diameter bit.
The whole wider bit is 2,5 cm long (probably 1"), with a 0,52 cm long widener.
And to explain how the parts stick together, check the attached image (or if you’re accessing this in another 15 years time as thin part - widener - wide part).
And for convenience, here’s a list of the measurements
- Outer diameter: 2,5 - 3,8 cm
- Inner diameter: 2 cm - 3,2 cm
- Wall thickness: 3 mm
- Length: 5,6 cm + 0,52 cm + 2,5 cm = 8,1 cm
Now for the original instructions:Links aren’t for purchase, but for where I got the measurements.
Low pressure 1" PVC
- Outer Diameter: 5/4" = 3,18 cm
- Inner Diameter: 1" = 2,54 cm
½" schedule 40 pvc - Outer Diameter: 2,15 cm
- Inner Diameter: 1,5 cm (sic)
3/8" threaded galvanized pipe - Outer Diameter: 1,72 cm
- Inner Diameter: 1,25 cm
Which gives Sleeve measures of: Thickness:
1" pvc with ½" schedule 40 pvc = 2,54 - 2,15 = 0,39 cm ~ 4mm thickness
1" pvc with 3/8" galvanized pipe = 2,54 - 1,72 = 0,82 cm ~ 8 mm thickness
Inner diameter:
1" pvc with ½" schedule 40 pvc = 1,5 cm
1" pvc with 3/8" galvanized pipe = 1,25 cm
Outer diameter = 2,54 cm
Length is 4¾" = 12,07 cm
Originally Posted by LucasBS
The sleeve slides off. It doesn’t hold.
Also, when I CAN attach it, it seems to grab and pull the skin of the base, but not the meat. And it comes off anyway.
I’m new to this, and ripped my sleeve. But I had some time to experiment with it. There’s a way to pull back the foreskin enough that the glans and 2-3 cm are taut, that was enough for my ADS to hold 2400 g of force.
With that said, I don’t know if that’s enough of a seal not to get air into the tip, as I didn’t manage that before getting tears that slowly leaked air (still held for 2h which is more than I can take without a break). I also used a plastic tip cup, so am looking forward to the tight seal of these DIY sleeves.
Originally Posted by LucasBS
I supposed that the glans should hold the sleeve, but the thing seems yet finer than the shaft. That normal ?
I haven’t tried molding these yet. But the sleeve that came with my kit didn’t have a closed top (but a hard plastic cup instead), you might want to experiment with that instead.
If you want a sealed top, you might want to reinforce and/or soften the edges, as that’s where the weak points will be. Could be made with a convex pipe cap, or maybe some clay to shape the tip.
This is a DIY solution, you are expected to apply some experimentation after your own needs.
Originally Posted by LucasBS
Last, before I forget: should it be attached while flaccid, rigid, or in between ?
When I unroll it, the sleeve simply pushes the head away like a child refusing food instead of wrapping around like a condom.OK. The last last question: does it increase only length or also diameter ?
You should probably search a bit on the forum.
Short answers without nuance: Flaccid, try rolling it smaller bits at a time while holding the penis stretched, mostly length with ADS.