cracking in the valve area

Do all cylinders eventually develop cracked or crazes that eventually leak? I had four do this in two years. Repaired them with PVC plumbing cement and Urethane sealers but none were fully sealed up. Need to change cylinder manufacturers I guess.

Nope that’s not normal. Real acrylic should last for decades unless it gets full sun UV exposure or you use some non compatible cleaning chemical.

Are the tubes made from real acrylic or that thin injection molded stuff?

What pumps are you using? How much do they cost? Materials are EVERYTHING.

Been same on all four cylinders. SIZE MATTERS from AMAZ(ing)ON. Thin at valve and crack easily. Only dropped one once $26.00 each for the cyl’s and $70 ? for the beginner kit with hand pump. Not up or regular daily use. Have ordered cylinders from a different company selling on eBay, we’ll see. I hate to put out $3-400.00 for the 3 sizes I use, but I’ll probably end up there.

It’s a shit beginner system. Real cylinders last pretty much forever. You can kick out a ton less for a LeLuv cylinder. If your pump has a standard male adapter you only need $35-42 for a durable cylinder.

I think the cylinders are all weak at the nozzle insert point. The acrylic is stressed when the threads are cut into it and gives it an inherent cracking potential. I took the new cylinders I got off the bay and removed the fittings and applied a urethane epoxy into the threads of the tube and smeared some on the fittings careful of not getting any in the valve. Left the O-rings in place. I then tightened them to a bit less torque, say 1/3 less by feel. Good results so far, but it makes a fitting repair difficult if needed.

If its next to the valve, put super glue gel and then sprinkle with baking soda wait about 30 mins sand around the valve area lightly and should be good to go.

You hit on a repair that I have used for guitar work/repair, especially to repair worn or damaged nuts and saddles. I never thought to use it on acrylic but yea, thanks.