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I attached photos of my pump. After re reading through this thread. What do you mean by tightening the valve. Is that the white part? It feels as tight as it can get, so I’m not sure. Be awesome if someone made a video on how to fix common issues with pumps and how to fix them.
I attached photos of my pump. After re reading through this thread. What do you mean by tightening the valve. Is that the white part? It feels as tight as it can get, so I’m not sure. Be awesome if someone made a video on how to fix common issues with pumps and how to fix them.
The female valve is the white part thats screws into the top of the cylinder. It is threaded on one side and female receptacle on the other. The metal slide is spring loaded to keep it in the locked position to hold the male fitting in place. The threaded side has a small o ring or small washer to seal against the cylinder. The o ring could be black rubber or if flat like a washer could be clear/off white in color. Make sure the oring/washer is not damaged with a pinch or cut.
Hand tighten the valve into the cylinder paying attention that the oring evenly compresses all around its exterior. If the o ring squeezes out more in one area than the others it is either damaged or the valve is screwed in too tight. Should be hand tight then just a little more, dont use a tool, just fingers. Confirm o ring is in place. If the o-ring squeezes out all over it is too large and needs to be replaced with the proper sized one.
The male fitting should be in place on the vacuum hose. Check that the hose side is not loose or has damage. You should not be able to spin the fitting inside the hose. If so, it is loose and probably leaks. Pull the fitting out and cut an inch off of the hose and reconnect the fitting by sliding/forcing the hose over the barb connection. You can use a little soapy water or windex to slide the fitting into the hose. It evaporates and leaves a tight connection.
The male fitting could have a small o ring just at the tip of the fitting. There will be a small groove if it should have one. No groove then an o ring is not part of the design.
The male fitting should fit into the female side with a firm click, as the metal slide is forced to open then pop (click) back in locked position as the male fitting slides into position. You should be able to hold the cylinder up by the hose without the fittings disconnecting.
Initial: 7” BPEL; 6” NBPEL; 5.25” - 5.5” MEG
Current: 7-7/8” BPEL; 7-3/8” NBPEL; 8.5” BPFSL; 6.5” MEG; 6”x5” Flaccid.
Goal: Improved/consistent EQ while managing ED. Secondary: maintain current stats.
You can always buy leluv pumps, LA pumps on aliexpress as well as electric pumps. Search “Penis pump”
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Different views of male and female vacuum connections. Picture should show “thread” end. Didn’t have a spare “r” at the time of the pic.
Initial: 7” BPEL; 6” NBPEL; 5.25” - 5.5” MEG
Current: 7-7/8” BPEL; 7-3/8” NBPEL; 8.5” BPFSL; 6.5” MEG; 6”x5” Flaccid.
Goal: Improved/consistent EQ while managing ED. Secondary: maintain current stats.
The female valve is the white part that screws into the top of the cylinder. It is threaded on one side and female receptacle on the other. The metal slide is spring loaded to keep it in the locked position to hold the male fitting in place. The threaded side has a small o ring or small washer to seal against the cylinder. The o ring could be black rubber or if flat like a washer could be clear/off white in color. Make sure the oring/washer is not damaged with a pinch or cut.Hand tighten the valve into the cylinder paying attention that the oring evenly compresses all around its exterior. If the o ring squeezes out more in one area than the others it is either damaged or the valve is screwed in too tight. Should be hand tight then just a little more, dont use a tool, just fingers. Confirm o ring is in place. If the o-ring squeezes out all over it is too large and needs to be replaced with the proper sized one.
The male fitting should be in place on the vacuum hose. Check that the hose side is not loose or has damage. You should not be able to spin the fitting inside the hose. If so, it is loose and probably leaks. Pull the fitting out and cut an inch off of the hose and reconnect the fitting by sliding/forcing the hose over the barb connection. You can use a little soapy water or windex to slide the fitting into the hose. It evaporates and leaves a tight connection.
The male fitting could have a small o ring just at the tip of the fitting. There will be a small groove if it should have one. No groove then an o ring is not part of the design.
The male fitting should fit into the female side with a firm click, as the metal slide is forced to open then pop (click) back in locked position as the male fitting slides into position. You should be able to hold the cylinder up by the hose without the fittings disconnecting.
All signs point to a bad hose but I was unable to spin the valve it is in there tight. How do I pull it out so I can cut a inch off and put it back in?
You can test the hose and fitting by placing your finger over then male connection and pumping. It should hold at whatever vac Pressure you pumped to. If it drops then either the fitting, hose, or pump have a leak.
To remove the male fitting, run hot water over the hose section, then pull and twist. If that doesn’t work use a sharp utility razor and lightly score the hose over the thread section. After a couple of cuts you should be almost all the way through the hose and a couple of twists should get it free. Try not to cut into the barb section of the coupler. A little bit into the barb shouldn’t hurt, but try to avoid it.
Initial: 7” BPEL; 6” NBPEL; 5.25” - 5.5” MEG
Current: 7-7/8” BPEL; 7-3/8” NBPEL; 8.5” BPFSL; 6.5” MEG; 6”x5” Flaccid.
Goal: Improved/consistent EQ while managing ED. Secondary: maintain current stats.
Thank you
Is your problem resolved?
Initial: 7” BPEL; 6” NBPEL; 5.25” - 5.5” MEG
Current: 7-7/8” BPEL; 7-3/8” NBPEL; 8.5” BPFSL; 6.5” MEG; 6”x5” Flaccid.
Goal: Improved/consistent EQ while managing ED. Secondary: maintain current stats.
Is your problem resolved?
Unfortunately no, so I’m just gonna order a new pump from eBay. But you been more then helpful and I truly am thankful.
Hopefully you’ll have better luck with the next one. Keep us updated.
Initial: 7” BPEL; 6” NBPEL; 5.25” - 5.5” MEG
Current: 7-7/8” BPEL; 7-3/8” NBPEL; 8.5” BPFSL; 6.5” MEG; 6”x5” Flaccid.
Goal: Improved/consistent EQ while managing ED. Secondary: maintain current stats.
Someone on here who knows how to fix broken pumps should start a online business. I’m sure it will make tons of money. This is going to be my 3rd pump in less then 2 years already.
This better last me atleast 2 years
Note that the size matters cylinders are smaller at the top.
Initial: 7” BPEL; 6” NBPEL; 5.25” - 5.5” MEG
Current: 7-7/8” BPEL; 7-3/8” NBPEL; 8.5” BPFSL; 6.5” MEG; 6”x5” Flaccid.
Goal: Improved/consistent EQ while managing ED. Secondary: maintain current stats.
Note that the size matters cylinders are smaller at the top.
Bottom as well. Should of ordered a 2.0 inch but this one will have to do. The size matters pump and tube is much better quality then the thickwall UK one but the cylinder it self feels alot cheaper then the UK one. Overall it is giving me a nice pump.
I do two fifteen minute sessions at 5gp with 5 minute breaks in between, three days on and one day rest.
This better last me atleast 2 years
Lasted 3.5 months before it started losing pressure through the valve. I tried tightening but nothing worked.
Is there any pump that will actually last atleast a year without breaking?