Ball zinger - new great (but difficult) idea for boosting voltage

1. CONSTRUCTION

As a Canadian without a credit card (I hate the goddam things), how could I go about building a ball zinger?

The tubing is an easy go, and I can’t imagine that copper tubing is that rare at an auto-parts or construction “superstore”. But what of zinc? I can’t order it online :P Is there a way to order it though our local construction or machining suppliers? Or perhaps there is a little-known household object in existence that happens to have a lovely zinc rod component?

2. EXPERIMENTATION

Has anyone tried playing with the current-vs-flux idea that we started to touch on earlier in this thread? If so, any input?

3. 24/7 BALL ZINGER vs ALL-NIGHT BALL ZINGER

Of those who have been practicing either the perpetual or sleep-time (aka 7-9 hrs/day) — or maybe both! — ball-zinger schedules, what comparisons can be made between the two as far as effectiveness?

Jabber

I hope you stir up some interest in this again. I stopped wearing mine because I don’t like wearing a cock ring all the time, but I did think up a different design. Thanks for reminding me.

Any idea where I can get zinc in sheet form? I did find a builder’s supply that supplies samples of zinc roofing or something. Damn! It’s like I’ve had a memory purge! Thanks again for reminding me.

Tex3

Tom,
You say the zinger voltage jumps from ~.12V to ~.80V.
Was this measured with an analogue (needle over scale)
or digital meter?.
Don’t know what the “internal impedance” of the zinger is,
but if it’s on the high side, the meter may make a difference.
Also, what was the “polarity”. Was the Zinc more positive,
or the Copper?.

MrAverage,
You say you use one with “4 each zinc and copper elements”
Am I correct in assuming that these are alternated - ie
Zinc, Copper, Zinc etc. That is what I assume you mean by
“element pairs”
Also, is the .6 - .8 Volts read with an analogue or a
digital meter?. Again, what polarity?.

Thunder,
You could be onto something when you say the current just helps with
“loosening up” of the molecules to be absorbed. The assistance would
most likely be that the molecules are ionised, rather than neutral.
Ie have either a positive or negative charge. Am not certain though.
I suppose it all depends on which Biosynthetic pathway - if any - they
are involved in!.

Priapos,
If it IS the current, rather than the Copper or Zinc ions, then some
method of allowing a variable current to be easily applied would be
beneficial, as it may be more comfortable and more effective!.

Marksman,
I agree that exactly how this thing works is still uncertain.
Could be either current flow or magnetic field.
You say you have tried small 1.5V batteries and the current is lower.
How exactly did you try them?.
Did you try the magnetic coil?. If so, what happened?.

Anyone,
Using the battery, instead of the dissimilar metals may make
the thing easier to make - no problems getting Zinc rod!.
Anyone tried this - with, for example, a pair of copper electrodes?.
Would it work, or does it need the Zinc and Copper ions?.

P.S.
It seems that some prefer the copper on the right, with the zinc on
the left. Is this a matter of comfort, or is it more effective?.

Anyone,
Using the battery, instead of the dissimilar metals may make
the thing easier to make - no problems getting Zinc rod!.
Anyone tried this - with, for example, a pair of copper electrodes?.
Would it work, or does it need the Zinc and Copper ions?.

Whilst awaiting the arrival of my zinc. I constructed a battery powered unit using two pcs of copper tubing. I used it for 3 or 4 days with a 1.5 volt battery attached. Tried 3.0 volts for a while, no discomfort. Hooked a 9v battery up to it. WHOA….. don’t do that. Probably wouldn’t be a good idea to plug it into a wall socket either.

Didn’t get anything good or bad to report with the 1.5 or 3.0 volts applied.

Zinc is the anode (negative), copper positive.

wantmo

I tried a battery too when I built the first one but didn’t wear it as you. Did you have the electrodes on both sides, rather than top and bottom, and did you switch polarity to see if there were a difference?

Tex3

Ok, following on from the posts about the battery version, decided
to try and take some readings!.
Took a “snap fit” cock ring, and looped two pieces
of wire round two press-studs.
One at the end, and the next but one - a distance of 36mm.
This was then fitted, and a 4mm plug / Croc clip lead attached to the wires.
The red lead on the left, black on the right.
The plugs were then attached to a digital meter set for 200mV F.S.D.
The meter then indicated 32mV.

A 1.5 cell (which read 1.474V off load), was then connected, with the positive
to the red lead. The meter was set to 200uA, and connected in series.
The Meter indicated approx 50uA.

Disconnecting the cell and taking a voltage reading indicated 100mV,
but the voltage steadily dropped.

Reconnected the cell with the opposite polarity - ie positive to the black lead.
The reading indicated about 70uA, falling to about
50uA, where it held.

Disconnecting the cell and taking a voltage reading indicated -160mV,
but the voltage steadily dropped.

Tried two cells in series for a higher voltage, but got a rather uncomfortable
“stinging” feeling resulting in a rapid dis-connection!.

Conclusions:

It seems that there is a low voltage present, that is normally positive
on the left, and negative on the right.

The applied voltage appears to cause a “polarisation” effect
in that the voltage read is higher after the applied voltage is removed.

The applied voltage can reverse the polarity of
the existing voltage.

LT

As long as you’re into taking measurements, would you ponder what the resistance of the saline legs might be and try replacing the saline with fixed resistors? I’m guessing about 100k or so. I’ve never seen any reason for the saline except to provide a current path. There’s no mystique about saline, and fixed resistors are a lot simpler and less messy.

Tex3

One electrode soldered to each copper 2.5” long copper tube
Copper tubes connected w rubber tubing
Switched polarity daily.

.

My question to any electrical engineers out there is: because saline is an incredibly efficient conductor of electrical current, filling the zinger with saline would certainly promote a continuous electrical circuit around and around in circles WITHIN the zinger, but given such a resistance-less path, is there any reason to believe that a saline-filled zinger promotes more current through your body? why??

And one more idea: What if you used a solid copper rod as well as the solid zinc rod, then saline-filled only one section of the tubing. As long as the zinger was not around your cock and balls, the internal circuit would be incomplete and the rods would not deteriorate at all. However, when worn, your skin would complete the circuit between the rods and the saline. Wouldn’t this setup promote a strong current through the body??

Tex3,
I never actually got round to building the copper / zinc zinger
due to problems obtaining the zinc rod.
Unfortunately, therefore, I can’t help with any reading from it,
or try the resistors as you suggested. Sorry!.
Maybe tom or one of the others?.

Some thoughts on the saline resistance.
Knowing the circumference / diameter of the tube
and the length in circuit,
it should be possable to work out the volume of
the saline.
Multiplying this by the volume resistance of the saline should
give the resistance.

True resistors are less messy than saline, but I
don’t think that
it would have the same effect …

Oaklawn7inches,
You are correct that saline is a good conductor of electricity.
This is because it is “ionic”. It comprise positive and negative
ions which can be caused to seperate, and thus carry a current.

As for the circuit within the zinger, it would seem to me that with
the single electrode pair (ie one copper and one zinc electrode)
that the effect would be similar two batteries wired in parallel.

If it makes it easier to see what I am talking about imagine the two
copper and zinc electrodes cut in half and connected by the saline.

You then have copper, saline and zinc, with voltage between top and bottom.
In the zinger, two are in parallel, so the only current caused would
be due to the difference in voltage.

In other words, there would be almost the same voltage each “side”
and therefore a minimal current flow.

If a saline filled “two pair” zinger were to be arranged so that the
electrodes were alternated - ie zinc, copper, zinc, copper - then it
would seem that there would be the “double” voltage to drive the current
through the zinger. Thus there would be a rather large internal current.
A sort of self dischaarge. This would most likely lead to a rapid
deteriation of the zinger. I doubt that it would improve the overall
results thought!.

As to the saline in the one pair zinger, it may help by lowering the
source impedance, but I am not certain!.

Has anyone from the UK made their own zinger? I’d be interested to know what supplier(s) were used for stuff like the zinc rod which seems to be the main headache for our US cousins.

Thanks

Jelq2grow

…but I do know of a CANADIAN or two who has had difficulty getting a hold of wholesale zinc. No word yet: I think I’ll end up special-ordering some from a local machining supplier.

As for the guys hooking batteries up to their Nads, any results? And is the Ball Zinger still in use? You boys are rather quiet these days…

I got the zinc rod from McMaster and the copper tubing. I then attempted to measure a voltage between the two, expecting maybe 100mv. There is nothing there, am I missing something?

Is the saline solution a necessity? Til

till

No, the saline isn’t a necessity. You should see voltage without it.

Verify your voltmeter has a field-effect transistor front end, or other very high impedance front end. If not, the voltage you’re trying to measure is being lost in the meter.

Check to see that the zinc and copper are in good, moist contact with your skin. This time of year you ought to be pretty moist down there, but maybe your hair is preventing good contact.

That’s all I can think of right now.:blue:

Tex3

tex3

I am using a Simpson vom with 20,000 ohms per volt input impedence. I haven’t attempted to use the device, I wanted to see the voltage before I put it together. So, I will take it for granted that it is there. Thanks