Just to confirm I’m understanding you correctly, I’m using a piece of cut cylindrical PVC to create a mould for the silicone which will result in a cylindrical silicone backing that will contour to the organ.1) Do I get rid of the PVC after? I.e. It’s just a mold? Or can I leave it adhered to the silicone for stability?
2) Ideally, if I can use a sturdy material under the silicone backing that will offer some support, that will be perfect to allow some pressure with the US heads. If you didn’t mean that the PVC can stay which I think will indeed provide sufficient support, kindly recommend something if you have ideas?
3) Any suggestions on what materials I can use for the overall structure, I.e. To attach the lead screws, motor, etc to? The guy is busy wrapping up some stuff for this week, then I can engage him for the build, but I don’t want to waste time. He did suggest 3D printing but I want to use something that I can trial and error on my own. I was looking at 1/4 inch thick birch plywood, or 1/4 inch acrylic/plexiglass. I just don’t have any hands on experience with these materials to know if they’ll be strong and sturdy enough.
4) (See attached entitled ‘Pubic base’) - Would you happen to know what that threading is called? I want to buy something that I could screw it into, and also, the distance between the two primary rods (I.e. How wide?) That will help me plan things out.
Thanks for any help Tutt and anyone else that chimes in.
By the way, the guy submitted a bill of materials today for the electromechanical components. I’ll attach it for anyone interested.
*Notes on the attached
-I personally have some doubts about if the motor he suggested will be strong enough. On YouTube I saw a video with it being able to lift a ~1.5kg bottle of water and failing on a 1.75kg. I think that plus the gear reduction he suggested might take us within the region we need to produce loads of up to 3kg, hopefully after accounting for friction etc. To be safe though, I asked for a stronger motor, the Nema 17, so for anyone wanting to go this route to ensure your device will be able to pull the load with a safety margin, you’d need to pair with this driver: HiLetgo 2pcs A3967 Stepper Motor Drive Board https://www.ama … /dp/B00WSNZEBM/
-I also think the guy misunderstood how the device will be used, which is why he suggested a joystick. I explained that it would not be practical to hold down the joystick in the direction we’re aiming to elongate since it might be for periods of 10 minutes plus etc. I don’t mind a joystick since it allows multiple inputs with a single mechanism (up, down, left, right, etc) but it will have to be programmed contrary to what the attached elaborates. I.e. I’ll have it programmed such that one tap in one direction will begin straining at xmm/min without holding down the joystick, etc.Once I finalize my build and confirm that everything works to fulfill the intended purpose, I’ll share the details and maybe an instructional. I’ll also freely share the final file that anyone can use to program their motor which should be as easy as plugging in a USB and uploading the code to the chip. Once I get some help with deciding some final materials, I’ll place my order, then once my stuff arrives, I’ll try to build the prototype.
(1) remove the PVC once the silicone sets up. Just a piece of 3/4 pvc. You want it to be a snug fit around the shaft which thins out when stretched. Those with more or less girth can still use the 3/4" tube because the phantom is sliced down the side. If you need it larger, just let the slit gap open. If smaller just cut out a bit of material so that it can close around the shaft tighter. The walls of my mold are somewhat square but with slightly different wall thickness, 1cm, 1.5cm, 2cm. So I can use the phantom as a standoff just by rotating it. I also find it easier to get good US contact on a flatter surface, but the autosound has a slightly curve face so I didn’t make the sides of the phantom perfectly flat.
(2) if you want a stiffer phantom, there are different versions of the dragon skin that all have very similar acoustic properties. Just use a harder curing silicone.
(3) I used blocks of ABS and HDPE because I had them laying around. Both are strong enough. That works well for mock up, but doing it again, I would 3D print the whole thing.
(4) off the top of my head I can’t remember the size and pitch of the threaded rod. Really easy though… take off one of the nuts and stop into a local home depot or hardware store and check the fit on their board. I then drilled the holes out and used my tap & die set to thread the holes. The pubic ring was actually a bit small to be useful but I liked the pivot of it, so I used a heat gun to soften the ring and stretched it larger. This allows me to perfectly fit the vacuum cup and then slide through the ring. Before stretching it, I had to slide the penis through the ring and then awkwardly apply the vacuum cup. Also, when using the large Phallosan vacuum cup, the threaded rods weren’t quite wide enough, so stretching the ring solved that as well.