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Digitally controlled constant strain extender

Originally Posted by easygainer
Just to confirm I’m understanding you correctly, I’m using a piece of cut cylindrical PVC to create a mould for the silicone which will result in a cylindrical silicone backing that will contour to the organ.

1) Do I get rid of the PVC after? I.e. It’s just a mold? Or can I leave it adhered to the silicone for stability?

2) Ideally, if I can use a sturdy material under the silicone backing that will offer some support, that will be perfect to allow some pressure with the US heads. If you didn’t mean that the PVC can stay which I think will indeed provide sufficient support, kindly recommend something if you have ideas?

3) Any suggestions on what materials I can use for the overall structure, I.e. To attach the lead screws, motor, etc to? The guy is busy wrapping up some stuff for this week, then I can engage him for the build, but I don’t want to waste time. He did suggest 3D printing but I want to use something that I can trial and error on my own. I was looking at 1/4 inch thick birch plywood, or 1/4 inch acrylic/plexiglass. I just don’t have any hands on experience with these materials to know if they’ll be strong and sturdy enough.

4) (See attached entitled ‘Pubic base’) - Would you happen to know what that threading is called? I want to buy something that I could screw it into, and also, the distance between the two primary rods (I.e. How wide?) That will help me plan things out.

Thanks for any help Tutt and anyone else that chimes in.

By the way, the guy submitted a bill of materials today for the electromechanical components. I’ll attach it for anyone interested.

*Notes on the attached
-I personally have some doubts about if the motor he suggested will be strong enough. On YouTube I saw a video with it being able to lift a ~1.5kg bottle of water and failing on a 1.75kg. I think that plus the gear reduction he suggested might take us within the region we need to produce loads of up to 3kg, hopefully after accounting for friction etc. To be safe though, I asked for a stronger motor, the Nema 17, so for anyone wanting to go this route to ensure your device will be able to pull the load with a safety margin, you’d need to pair with this driver: HiLetgo 2pcs A3967 Stepper Motor Drive Board https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W … m/dp/B00WSNZEBM
-I also think the guy misunderstood how the device will be used, which is why he suggested a joystick. I explained that it would not be practical to hold down the joystick in the direction we’re aiming to elongate since it might be for periods of 10 minutes plus etc. I don’t mind a joystick since it allows multiple inputs with a single mechanism (up, down, left, right, etc) but it will have to be programmed contrary to what the attached elaborates. I.e. I’ll have it programmed such that one tap in one direction will begin straining at xmm/min without holding down the joystick, etc.

Once I finalize my build and confirm that everything works to fulfill the intended purpose, I’ll share the details and maybe an instructional. I’ll also freely share the final file that anyone can use to program their motor which should be as easy as plugging in a USB and uploading the code to the chip. Once I get some help with deciding some final materials, I’ll place my order, then once my stuff arrives, I’ll try to build the prototype.

(1) remove the PVC once the silicone sets up. Just a piece of 3/4 pvc. You want it to be a snug fit around the shaft which thins out when stretched. Those with more or less girth can still use the 3/4” tube because the phantom is sliced down the side. If you need it larger, just let the slit gap open. If smaller just cut out a bit of material so that it can close around the shaft tighter. The walls of my mold are somewhat square but with slightly different wall thickness, 1cm, 1.5cm, 2cm. So I can use the phantom as a standoff just by rotating it. I also find it easier to get good US contact on a flatter surface, but the autosound has a slightly curve face so I didn’t make the sides of the phantom perfectly flat.

(2) if you want a stiffer phantom, there are different versions of the dragon skin that all have very similar acoustic properties. Just use a harder curing silicone.

(3) I used blocks of ABS and HDPE because I had them laying around. Both are strong enough. That works well for mock up, but doing it again, I would 3D print the whole thing.

(4) off the top of my head I can’t remember the size and pitch of the threaded rod. Really easy though… take off one of the nuts and stop into a local home depot or hardware store and check the fit on their board. I then drilled the holes out and used my tap & die set to thread the holes. The pubic ring was actually a bit small to be useful but I liked the pivot of it, so I used a heat gun to soften the ring and stretched it larger. This allows me to perfectly fit the vacuum cup and then slide through the ring. Before stretching it, I had to slide the penis through the ring and then awkwardly apply the vacuum cup. Also, when using the large Phallosan vacuum cup, the threaded rods weren’t quite wide enough, so stretching the ring solved that as well.

Originally Posted by newyorktexan
Tutt, I researched that Therasound device. Yes, it does seem pricy! But, have you actually used it? I was curious as to how the autosound applicator may work in this application, but I agree that not having to move the heads around during a session would be a wonderful improvement.
Thanks

Yes, the therasound machine is plenty powerful enough and the autosound applicator has 4 emitters that cycle 1 second at a time. It can cycle through 1mHz and 3mHz to change depth of wave penetration. I use a gel pad on the phantom and velcro strap the autosound applicator over the gel pad with a neoprene velcro strap. I don’t currently have temperature probes built into the phantom because I’m very familiar with what 43C feels like. The key is not to get in a big hurry. Start the power lower as it cycles through and let the tissue come up to temp. With my device and a drive motor running as slow as it is, there is plenty of time to come up to temp as you progress very slowly through the toe of the strain curve. The benefit is that I don’t have to spend any mental focus or dexterity trying to keep multiple US heads aimed and moving optimally. Also, the autosound head covers most of the area simultaneously, so you don’t run into issues with reaching target temps on one small section and straining the rest cold.

But in both cases when done properly, there is a buildup of residual heat over time. As long as the device output is high enough and the BNR is good so you don’t have dangerous hot spots.

I have just two question to the experts .

We know that of examples of tunica rupturing at 50 KG (110 LB) even though we have other documents stating that it can be up to 150 KG (330 LB). There are articles that mention that plastic deformation is around 40%. So lets say that at 50 KG the plastic deformation would begin at 44 LB.
I find that several big gainers claim to have gone as far as 45 LB on their home made hangers.

Here are my two questions; First, how long (time) would hanging at 44 LB would be the minimum to achieve a degree of deformation? I think that 8 minutes might be it. My second question if you use heat how much % do you think it would lower from that 44 LB?

Originally Posted by gomitadelimon
I have just two question to the experts .

We know that of examples of tunica rupturing at 50 KG (110 LB) even though we have other documents stating that it can be up to 150 KG (330 LB). There are articles that mention that plastic deformation is around 40%. So lets say that at 50 KG the plastic deformation would begin at 44 LB.
I find that several big gainers claim to have gone as far as 45 LB on their home made hangers.

Here are my two questions; First, how long (time) would hanging at 44 LB would be the minimum to achieve a degree of deformation? I think that 8 minutes might be it. My second question if you use heat how much % do you think it would lower from that 44 LB?

I hope those are just theoretical questions that you do not intend to use to infer a routine. That would defy everything that Kyrpa and Tutt have discussed which I highly suggest you read if you have not yet. Pro tip: Go to Tutt’s profile and find all his posts and take some time to read them all from the oldest to most recent, particularly the ones where he and Kyrpa had exchanges. By the time you make it through you should have a solid understanding of their thought processes and methods.

Anyways, if your questions are just theoretical, kindly disregard this message. If not, my answer based on my learnings (for what it’s worth) is that you do not need to enter the plastic region of your unique stress-strain curve for permanent gains. The elastic region is sufficient to produce permanent elongation (the mechanisms were elaborated by Tutt in the main US thread I think). Once you plot your own curve with heat, and start comparing BPEL and BPFSL* across a few sessions, you will confirm whether you’re gaining or not. The nature of the game would then be small cumulative gains in permanent elongation while respecting strain rate and max load (and only straining under heat) so as to not induce toughening which will hinder long term gains. Strain rate alone, plus the diameter of the average penis would mean that loads that high will be counterproductive and create toughening. Most men will not need more than maybe 3.5kgs, and you’ll probably need less under heat. With those superman loads you quoted, you might get some initial gains which will very quickly come to a stop and the guaranteed added toughening will prohibit future gains.

*Although BPFSL has been used as a standard measure, Tutt recommends against it since it’s a form of strain - and one that is usually relatively high in nature and usually done without heat. This might induce a toughening response or at least goes against some of the conditions identified as correlating with optimality. Tutt also elaborated on his alternative approach in the US thread.

Originally Posted by gomitadelimon
I have just two question to the experts .

We know that of examples of tunica rupturing at 50 KG (110 LB) even though we have other documents stating that it can be up to 150 KG (330 LB). There are articles that mention that plastic deformation is around 40%. So lets say that at 50 KG the plastic deformation would begin at 44 LB.
I find that several big gainers claim to have gone as far as 45 LB on their home made hangers.

Here are my two questions; First, how long (time) would hanging at 44 LB would be the minimum to achieve a degree of deformation? I think that 8 minutes might be it. My second question if you use heat how much % do you think it would lower from that 44 LB?

@easygainer gave a good response above. I would just point out a couple things. As he suggested, Kyrpa and I had extensive exchange on this topic in another thread, both theoretically and practically. The issue is now fully settled. Permanent elongation does not require straining into the plastic region. A common mistake is treating the TA as if it is ductile material. In fact it is highly viscoelastic and also living tissue with physiological response. Permanent elongation results from the viscosity of the tissue and its ability to regenerate over time. As Easygainer stated, this is most optimally accomplished by keeping the loads modest, keeping the strain rate very slow, reaching critical internal tissue temperatures, and avoiding the temptation to perform the protocol more than about 3 hours per week.

You can gain 4-6cm of length without ever going over 3.5kg of load and no danger of injury. Why would anyone even think obout loads of 20kg.


Last edited by Tutt : 03-09-2022 at .

Thanks for the reply.

Originally Posted by Tutt
(1) remove the PVC once the silicone sets up. Just a piece of 3/4 pvc. You want it to be a snug fit around the shaft which thins out when stretched. Those with more or less girth can still use the 3/4” tube because the phantom is sliced down the side. If you need it larger, just let the slit gap open. If smaller just cut out a bit of material so that it can close around the shaft tighter. The walls of my mold are somewhat square but with slightly different wall thickness, 1cm, 1.5cm, 2cm. So I can use the phantom as a standoff just by rotating it. I also find it easier to get good US contact on a flatter surface, but the autosound has a slightly curve face so I didn’t make the sides of the phantom perfectly flat.

(2) if you want a stiffer phantom, there are different versions of the dragon skin that all have very similar acoustic properties. Just use a harder curing silicone.

(3) I used blocks of ABS and HDPE because I had them laying around. Both are strong enough. That works well for mock up, but doing it again, I would 3D print the whole thing.

(4) off the top of my head I can’t remember the size and pitch of the threaded rod. Really easy though.. Take off one of the nuts and stop into a local home depot or hardware store and check the fit on their board. I then drilled the holes out and used my tap & die set to thread the holes. The pubic ring was actually a bit small to be useful but I liked the pivot of it, so I used a heat gun to soften the ring and stretched it larger. This allows me to perfectly fit the vacuum cup and then slide through the ring. Before stretching it, I had to slide the penis through the ring and then awkwardly apply the vacuum cup. Also, when using the large Phallosan vacuum cup, the threaded rods weren’t quite wide enough, so stretching the ring solved that as well.

Thanks for the detailed response. Really helpful. Great idea with the heat gun! I would have never thought of that, lol.

I’m rethinking my intended design as the current one would mean that I’m heating from the dorsal side. I’m going to make some changes so that I can heat from the ventral side. Would you mind posting some pics of your current device? Might help stimulate some ideas. No pressure though.

Re: Phantom
1) So it’s essentially just hugging the shaft? I thought it would be mounted to the extender so that I could press with the transducer head. I guess having the shaft under tension will provide enough firmness to facilitate some pressure?

2) What thickness HDPE/ABS do you think would suffice?

3) I want to ensure that my lead screw and extender components are long enough for my entire PE career. Any idea what the average max BPFSL looks like so that I never hit any constraints length wise? (My current BPEL is a mere 5.25” - never measured BPFSL and not keen on doing it now). I see that a common lead screw length is 300mm (11.8 inches) so I’m thinking this should suffice for me to never run out of strain runway during sessions. Would you concur?

Originally Posted by easygainer
Thanks for the detailed response. Really helpful. Great idea with the heat gun! I would have never thought of that, lol.

I’m rethinking my intended design as the current one would mean that I’m heating from the dorsal side. I’m going to make some changes so that I can heat from the ventral side. Would you mind posting some pics of your current device? Might help stimulate some ideas. No pressure though.

Re: Phantom
1) So it’s essentially just hugging the shaft? I thought it would be mounted to the extender so that I could press with the transducer head. I guess having the shaft under tension will provide enough firmness to facilitate some pressure?

2) What thickness HDPE/ABS do you think would suffice?

3) I want to ensure that my lead screw and extender components are long enough for my entire PE career. Any idea what the average max BPFSL looks like so that I never hit any constraints length wise? (My current BPEL is a mere 5.25” - never measured BPFSL and not keen on doing it now). I see that a common lead screw length is 300mm (11.8 inches) so I’m thinking this should suffice for me to never run out of strain runway during sessions. Would you concur?

There is a picture of my device posted on Kyrpa’s thread, but prior to mounting the motor. You’ll see that I designed mine to be open above and below so that I can heat from both.

(1) yes the phantom hugs all the way around the shaft. This is because you really want consistent sound wave travel. With US gel coupling the phantom to the shift, you ensure against any wave reflection at any surface. That way you don’t accidentally burn the skin prior to heating the septum. You don’t really want to add pressure to the shaft under tension because it adds load and strain in an uncontrolled fashion. You don’t need pressure anyway. So long as you have good contact with the US sound head, you are good.

(2) mine is designed differently than yours to allow full access to the shaft. I had a couple blocks about 3”x3”x7” sitting around for milling. For the prototype, I didn’t bother with a really sophisticated and sleek design. Just functional.

(3) with my design I don’t need a lead screw the full length of the shaft, just the intended max strain. About 2.5” of travel is enough for proper treatment. I use fixed length rods for the majority of the BPFSL. But the treatment starts at a length about 1.75” below BPFSL and travels slowly a little over 2” until hitting max load. From your current BPEL, the device likely won’t need to accommodate more than 8.5” and personally I would stop by then anyway. I STRONGLY believe that the ideal size is 7.5” BPEL and 5.5” MEG, assuming a fit body type without an overly prominent fat pad.

Originally Posted by Tutt
There is a picture of my device posted on Kyrpa’s thread, but prior to mounting the motor. You’ll see that I designed mine to be open above and below so that I can heat from both.

(1) yes the phantom hugs all the way around the shaft. This is because you really want consistent sound wave travel. With US gel coupling the phantom to the shift, you ensure against any wave reflection at any surface. That way you don’t accidentally burn the skin prior to heating the septum. You don’t really want to add pressure to the shaft under tension because it adds load and strain in an uncontrolled fashion. You don’t need pressure anyway. So long as you have good contact with the US sound head, you are good.

(2) mine is designed differently than yours to allow full access to the shaft. I had a couple blocks about 3”x3”x7” sitting around for milling. For the prototype, I didn’t bother with a really sophisticated and sleek design. Just functional.

(3) with my design I don’t need a lead screw the full length of the shaft, just the intended max strain. About 2.5” of travel is enough for proper treatment. I use fixed length rods for the majority of the BPFSL. But the treatment starts at a length about 1.75” below BPFSL and travels slowly a little over 2” until hitting max load. From your current BPEL, the device likely won’t need to accommodate more than 8.5” and personally I would stop by then anyway. I STRONGLY believe that the ideal size is 7.5” BPEL and 5.5” MEG, assuming a fit body type without an overly prominent fat pad.

Awesome! Thanks Tutt.

Based on the lack of breakthrough for girth, what do you think of getting length in the desired range (perhaps overshooting a bit) then switching to traditional downward hanging to thicken things up? Do you think that might work? I imagine one might lose some length, hence the overshoot, but it might help thicken things up to get the girth.

Or do you think length restricted pumping is enough to add an inch to girth?

Originally Posted by easygainer
Awesome! Thanks Tutt.

Based on the lack of breakthrough for girth, what do you think of getting length in the desired range (perhaps overshooting a bit) then switching to traditional downward hanging to thicken things up? Do you think that might work? I imagine one might lose some length, hence the overshoot, but it might help thicken things up to get the girth.

Or do you think length restricted pumping is enough to add an inch to girth?

In another thread I summed up my best guess as to the most likely optimal methods for girth. I really don’t like pumping. IMO, restricted length clamping as well as a smashed version create the most optimal strain forces for girth.

Originally Posted by Tutt
In another thread I summed up my best guess as to the most likely optimal methods for girth. I really don’t like pumping. IMO, restricted length clamping as well as a smashed version create the most optimal strain forces for girth.

I’ll do some searching, thanks!

Device update. I’m doing a draft in Fusion 360.first time using it but I want to confirm that my components are compatible before ordering. If so, it will make it super easy for others to just buy and assemble as well.

Can I ask the legitimate use-case behind spending/crafting an electric extender? I just cannot see how this would out compete any manual solutions.

Looking at the attached “mock-ups”, this thing will need to be massive. To have room for a stretched dick which depending on who you are can easily stretch to lets say 25cm, and a fish-scale which even the smallest of them are still near 13-14cm in length. So just between the extender and scale, your looking at near 15 inches of supporting material sticking out and to be completely honest that’s no where near the minimum length that this thing will actually need to be to make this all work. 15 inches is ignoring anything that needs to be used to attach things, vacuum cup, clips and what not. Not to mention all the material that’s needed to run this thing, motors, screws, brackets, nuts and bolts. Things that will only add, size and weight. Your going to end up with well over 15 inches of metal and wires hanging off of your junk.

And all of this is for what exactly? To make the process of setting strain motorized? Right. Well to that point. Considering that the “designed” method for calculating the load is a fish scale, I can imagine that there is not a tonnnnn of technical expertise here in working with electronics. Meaning that even if at the end of this you can push a button that triggers a motor to do the extending and contracting for you, you will still need to be manually reading the fish scale and pushing the buttons yourself until you reach your desired strain.
So how exactly is this any better than doing it with your hands. Whats the purpose of using motors here in reality. How would using weights, manually twisting bolts, or a pulley and rope that can be locked realllyyyyyy be any different than this. In both cases its the user that has to control the amount of strain that’s applied. The only difference is that this option will cost an arm and a leg (comparatively), and it adds an insane amount of complexity for really 0 benefit. Unless stacking weights, or twisting nuts with your thumbs are to burdensome.

Again since a fish-scale is being used here, rather than purchasing a force transducer and an Arduino im going to assume there is only a small amount of technical skill behind the application. Which Is fine, obviously. Its just that the only way i could see this being worth the cost, time, and overall size and complexity of the final product would be if you did have the technical skills to put behind it. Using an Arduino as an I/O device and controller for the motors and a force transducer. Allowing for manual input of set strain, which in turn allowing the controller to turn the motor up or down to reach the target strain, essentially locking and automating the strain entirely. Even this however is over-kill, IMO. When all manual devices are more than competent for the use.

To me this is like the trashcans with the sensors that open the can when you wave your hand over it. Like its novel i guess? But in reality what benefit do the batteries, motors and an IR sensor add to a trash can, that a simple foot press and some springs cant accomplish?

I hope this doesnt come across too “attacking”, Im just trying to get my point across thoroughly, and im genuinely interested in challenging the intended benefit of this venture, see if someone can make it make sense to me.


"Pain is temporary, pride is forever."

Originally Posted by oMooseknuckle
Can I ask the legitimate use-case behind spending/crafting an electric extender? I just cannot see how this would out compete any manual solutions.

Looking at the attached “mock-ups”, this thing will need to be massive. To have room for a stretched dick which depending on who you are can easily stretch to lets say 25cm, and a fish-scale which even the smallest of them are still near 13-14cm in length. So just between the extender and scale, your looking at near 15 inches of supporting material sticking out and to be completely honest that’s no where near the minimum length that this thing will actually need to be to make this all work. 15 inches is ignoring anything that needs to be used to attach things, vacuum cup, clips and what not. Not to mention all the material that’s needed to run this thing, motors, screws, brackets, nuts and bolts. Things that will only add, size and weight. Your going to end up with well over 15 inches of metal and wires hanging off of your junk.

And all of this is for what exactly? To make the process of setting strain motorized? Right. Well to that point. Considering that the “designed” method for calculating the load is a fish scale, I can imagine that there is not a tonnnnn of technical expertise here in working with electronics. Meaning that even if at the end of this you can push a button that triggers a motor to do the extending and contracting for you, you will still need to be manually reading the fish scale and pushing the buttons yourself until you reach your desired strain.
So how exactly is this any better than doing it with your hands. Whats the purpose of using motors here in reality. How would using weights, manually twisting bolts, or a pulley and rope that can be locked realllyyyyyy be any different than this. In both cases its the user that has to control the amount of strain that’s applied. The only difference is that this option will cost an arm and a leg (comparatively), and it adds an insane amount of complexity for really 0 benefit. Unless stacking weights, or twisting nuts with your thumbs are to burdensome.

Again since a fish-scale is being used here, rather than purchasing a force transducer and an Arduino im going to assume there is only a small amount of technical skill behind the application. Which Is fine, obviously. Its just that the only way i could see this being worth the cost, time, and overall size and complexity of the final product would be if you did have the technical skills to put behind it. Using an Arduino as an I/O device and controller for the motors and a force transducer. Allowing for manual input of set strain, which in turn allowing the controller to turn the motor up or down to reach the target strain, essentially locking and automating the strain entirely. Even this however is over-kill, IMO. When all manual devices are more than competent for the use.

To me this is like the trashcans with the sensors that open the can when you wave your hand over it. Like its novel i guess? But in reality what benefit do the batteries, motors and an IR sensor add to a trash can, that a simple foot press and some springs cant accomplish?

I hope this doesnt come across too “attacking”, Im just trying to get my point across thoroughly, and im genuinely interested in challenging the intended benefit of this venture, see if someone can make it make sense to me.

If you really want to know, I’ll give you the nutshell version and you can read the related threads for links to the literature supporting the conclusions.

The punch line is that it is physically impossible to manually strain the penis in a fashion that is controlled enough to avoid the adverse physiological response.

When you strain live collagenous tissue (which is the limiter in penis size) beyond the normal physiological range (e.g. BPEL) on a repeat basis, within 7 days the body begins an adaptation process. The collagen fibers begin aligning in the direction of the force, the elastic modulus increases making the penis less elastic, and the tissue becomes more dense making future strains exponentially more difficult. Within 21 days, the adaptation is well progressed and the only way to continue achieving greater strains is to exponentially increase load, which is why TP is filled with stories of veterans hanging with absurd loads. They have accurately demonstrated to themselves and others exactly how the body responds to repeated hyperextension.

Conversely, if you perform the strain protocol with three critical conditions, the tissue can experience significant strains and substantial permanent deformation without inducing this limiting response. Or at least significantly delaying and minimizing it. First the tissue must be heated above 41C and if possible closer to 42-43C any time it experiences a strain outside of the normal physiolocal erection. Second, the load applied in a single instance should not exceed a threshold which is approximately 3.5Kg for most men. Third, the rate of strain should be very slow, ideally around 0.5 to 1.0% per minute which typically means an ideal rate of less than 1mm per minute.

The only methods for reaching target temperature currently are ultrasound and radio frequency. All other methods burn the skin before reaching critical temp. RF is very expensive and inaccessible, so ultrasound is preferred. But it requires a fair amount of concentration and dexterity which is further complicated when trying to strain manually. Then even if using an accurate and precise force transducer it is impossible to maintain consistent load over time manually. If I used my calibrated tensiometer that will measure load in the smallest increments imaginable, what good is that if I can’t maintain the load over time. A cheap $10 digital fish scale is plenty accurate enough to tell someone that they’ve achieve a constant load of about 3Kg. Finally, I can’t imagine anyone being able to demonstrate that they can strain their penis manually at a rate less than 1mm per minute. Especially since the application of strain progressing at 1mm per minute takes about 30 minutes. If done truly manually, the arm cannot endure. Some here use weights or springs which is a decent compromise, but I already discovered that a creep protocol (weights and springs) is somewhat inferior to a stress relaxation protocol and much more complicated in measuring and controlling strain rate.

So why not build a fully digitally controlled programmable device that is much more elegant? Simple, I just built an adequate prototype using mostly what I had sitting around the lab, in a way that requires the least amount of time to prove the concept. It’s a minimum viable product in that sense. Or maybe just a proof of concept. If I worked in a robotics lab, maybe I’d have force transducers and arduinos laying around. But besides creating something more elegant, it would be difficult to argue that it was faster and simpler than my analog prototype using things I already had.

In the end, do people here want some manual techniques that are fairly sufficient for loosening bound up range of motion in the pelvic floor and giving a fairly rapid 15-20mm of apparent gains and then only modest unpredictable results for some people sometimes after that. Or do they want something that is scientifically supported as the optimal method for straining live tissue into permanent defomation in a manner that allows for substantially greater cumulative increase and will work for all people every time?

Keep in mind, despite not being particularly pretty and with a weight about 1lbs heavier than a well designed device this is incredibly simple. I turn on my hands free ultrasound and flip the motor on with the speed at 2mm per minute (~4rpm). The tissue heats as I progress through the toe of the load-strain curve. My hands are free to dial up or down the US power if needed. Then once I get to about 1Kg of load, I slow the motor to about 2rpm for a strain rate less than 1% per minute. It takes several minutes to reach max load and the focus during that time is maintaining critical temp. Honestly, very little thought goes into the motor and load scale. Once I hit target load, I flip the motor off and wait for the load to drop to a threshold and then turn off the US with the strain locked in place. As the tissue cools, the load naturally increases about 20%. It takes a couple minutes for the tissue to cool and then I release the load and get cleaned up.

Maybe more beautiful to look at, but I doubt anyone can make something easier to implement without spending a significant amount of money and R&D.

Originally Posted by Tutt
Keep in mind, despite not being particularly pretty and with a weight about 1lbs heavier than a well designed device this is incredibly simple. I turn on my hands free ultrasound and flip the motor on with the speed at 2mm per minute (~4rpm). The tissue heats as I progress through the toe of the load-strain curve. My hands are free to dial up or down the US power if needed. Then once I get to about 1Kg of load, I slow the motor to about 2rpm for a strain rate less than 1% per minute. It takes several minutes to reach max load and the focus during that time is maintaining critical temp. Honestly, very little thought goes into the motor and load scale. Once I hit target load, I flip the motor off and wait for the load to drop to a threshold and then turn off the US with the strain locked in place. As the tissue cools, the load naturally increases about 20%. It takes a couple minutes for the tissue to cool and then I release the load and get cleaned up.

Maybe more beautiful to look at, but I doubt anyone can make something easier to implement without spending a significant amount of money and R&D.

I’m going full lead-screw design. Just a few more components to select before I complete my model and order parts. Yes it’s going to be a bit weighty/perhaps bulky relatively speaking but with the use of US, treatments were always going to be done in very focused sessions, I.e. I don’t ever intend to stand hanging my device off my junk. I’ll sit and have it all sit between my legs and do it’s thing while I handle the manual inputs.

Great response above Tutt.

I personally am indeed suffering from a lack of technical knowledge but I’m figuring it out as I go along and outsourcing help as much as I can afford. In the last few days I installed Fusion 360, I’m downloading STEP and CAD files and having a blast modeling in the software whilst figuring out the software itself. The electronics required are really simple anyways so I have no doubts I’ll develop a device that works for me and anyone will be welcomed to replicate or iteratively improve it. That said, anyone with the expertise is more than welcomed to jump in and help. Of course the fantasy PE device doesn’t yet exist but we have to start somewhere.

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