At some point early on in the thread, probably on the first or second page, I used geometry to decide that the 1/8” safety hole was stupid. The same surface area (within a very small margin) was had by (4) holes at 1/16” inch and made calibration of pressures used in the tube far more predictable than twitches and thickness of your fingerprint that day.
So, to do PE4F pumping, I started with one hole at 9/64” (because my 1/8” drill bit had broken on another job and nearly taken out my eye) and found that I could not reliably reproduce any pressure I wanted to target according to my gauge. Looking at the hole concept I did the surface area of a 1/8” diameter circle and found that the surface area of (4) 1/16” circles was very similar and that covering one hole, two holes or three, no matter which ones reproduced the same pressures every time. So I decided to use my fingertip on the 4 smaller holes.
This left my original 2.25” LeLuv cylinder with one 9/64” hole drilled in it that I really don’t want. This is how I repaired it.
First, epoxy for this application is overkill. And I kept looking for the perfect one as most say doesn’t bond to polyethylene plastics. Then, they said “scuff the surface” and “make sure compound contacts both surfaces” and really, epoxy is made to bond two items together, fix a crack and reseal it. Not plug a round hole. I’m sure I could have gotten some epoxy to work but my concern was the non-porous nature of the outside of the tube would let my plug eventually fall off of the cylinder. Plus I hate mixing and setting epoxy.
If you've cracked a tube…
That being said, if you have cracked your tube or broken your pump cylinder, epoxy is the method I would recommend. A cracked area, not being buffed or finished, would likely already be porous and not require an additional scuffing step. Simply applying epoxy in the crack on one side of the damage and on the outside of the cylinder would be enough adhesive. Afterwards, securing it in some kind of vice for the compound to cure, would be the way I would go if I had a valuable cylinder I wanted to save from the trash can. Then, for good measure, running some of the tape featured later in this post along the outside of the crack for good measure would be a smart move also.
As it happens, I was at a hardware store and the old guy in it saw me wandering around and asked what I was doing. I said I was sealing a clear jar and wanted an airtight seal, that it didn’t have to be a clear seal. After explaining my epoxy issue he asked why couldn’t I use tape? Before I could say “Tape prolly ain’t gonna hold up” he disappeared and reappeared with the tape seen in Figure 1. Looking at the packaging, if the adhesive can hold underwater it should hold up to what is a relatively light level of abrasion and interference. Pressure, if the tape doesn’t fold into the hole, is all I’m concerned with. Plus it’s super easy to apply. I went about it super complicated of course.
Steps Taken for Repair
1. Package of the tape used. I don’t think regular scotch packing tape would hold up long term as the glue would likely give or the plastic become brittle. Not sure, went with this instead.
2. I cut a small square over the hole and put it on. Then took the excesss from that first piece and reinforced that. Then took a square over that patch on all sides and a square to overlap that on all sides. So that if the original patch starts to give way, it has to tug multiple levels of reinforcement of equally sticky and strong tape in different directions to diffuse inward forces on the surface of the entire patch. You can see this in Figure 2.
3. I picked a site for my 4 holes then drilled them through the tape and reamed them without wobbling the bit so that the holes would be clean.
4. I found that tape being drilled through was simply not adequate to ensure that the holes would not become plugged by ragged tape edges so I took my utility razor and cut a section of the outer part of the patch out, around the holes. You can see this in Figure 3.
5. I visibly checked the holes for perfection, which I think is reasonably round and clear of obstruction. The spiral pieces of acrylic generated by the drill left inside the tube were easily removed by pushing a T-Shirt into the tube and twisting a few times.
6. I checked calibration of the holes with my pump. The pressures read well within a margin of error of the exact same as covering the same number of holes on my 2” cylinder.
Calibration of Cylinder used for PE4F Pumping
1. No holes covered- 5HG
2. 1 hole covered- 6HG (setting is not ever used, I skip to 2 holes covered but I drilled all 4 to have a lower resting pressure with all holes uncovered)
**3. 2 holes covered- 9.5HG (3 holes covered has routinely been one of the more fluctuation prone settings, it goes as low as 7.5HG and I can’t say exactly why but my logs have shown this over the 10 months of experimentation)
4. 3 holes covered- 15-16HG
5. All Holes Covered- Full Vacuum
Calibration of Cylinder was performed on my right pectoral muscle. This has proven to expand a bit under vacuum without significant pain and the pressures are very close to what is shown on the gauge when using the cylinder on my penis.
Other Thoughts
Honestly, another LeLuv Tube wouldn’t have broken the bank. However, repair still saved me $30 and if you’re using more expensive tubes from VacuTech or Pumptoys this may be the difference between a dead in the water campaign or success because $150+ is a hard pill to swallow because you used the wrong drill bit for a few seconds.
Picture quality isn’t great because taking pictures of clear tape with a cellphone sucks. But…I hope the general idea is transferred to you, the readers.