PE4F High Pressure Pumping: thoughtfulgold

Alright, so I’ve done a lot of research into PEforFun’s controversial and high intensity style of pumping with an industrial grade vacuum pump. Honestly, I was not thrilled at the idea. However, the researcher in me saw results in his very unique case and that people seem able to utilize this technique safely. So, I of course wanted real safety in the form of a gauge and brainstormed my own routine idea before I would even begin to contemplate using a full vacuum system setup. I asked around, consulting with Bearded Dragon at length with a few of the safety and technical details before beginning.

This link thoroughly explains PE4F pumping The write-up linked is quite informative and prefaces what this thread is about, giving you much more context from an experienced PE4F style pumper.

That’s the introduction.

If you are not a very experienced pumper and are still in the newbie phase there are other, far less risky methods that are cheaper and more fun. This method is for the very experienced only and should not be attempted lightly. This is highly dangerous and results are not only not guaranteed but accelerated paths to injury are very common using this device type in this way.

That, is the warning.

Now, first few posts are going to be technical specs on my exact rig-up and some pictures and tips if you want to replicate it. I’m starting with the pump I’m using and the pieces you will need.

Pump Parts list

1. The Pump: Robinair (15115) VacuMaster Single Stage Vacuum Pump - Single-Stage, 1.5 CFM purchased on Amazon here for around $87

2. Pump Mineral Oil: JB Industries DVO-24 Bottle of Black Gold Vacuum Pump Oil, 1 gallon purchased on Amazon here for around $28

3. The Tubing: 25 Feet Vinyl Tubing- Food Grade- 5/16" ID 7/16" OD 10 Ft, 25 Ft, or 50 Ft FDA Approved purchased on Amazon here for around $13

4. The Replacement fitting (pay close attention to the measurements here): Brass Hose Fitting, Adapter, 3/8" Barb x 1/4" NPT Male Pipe
This part I purchased in a hardware store, which simply has it down as a 3/8" Barb 1/4" Male fitting or MPT. Amazon has a part that should be comparable here. for around $4, which is what I paid in a local hardware store.

5. Teflon Tape: I purchased it some time ago. It’s random, easily found locally in any hardware/home improvement store. Amazon has some overpriced here for around $4.

Total Thus Far: $136

Tools Needed:

1/2" Drive Ratchet with 9/16" socket (to get the fitting off of the pump in figure 2.)

Utility razor (to cut tubing to length)

8" Adjustable wrench or a deep well 9/16" socket (to put your new fitting into the pump.)

Enough hand strength to force the vinyl tubing over the barbed end of the brass fitting now on your pump.

Steps to modify pump:

1. Get your pump out of the box, remove the black cap from the brass fitting as pictured in figure one. Unscrew it, then it tugs off of a small plastic loop, you won’t need it again.

2. Take your ratchet with 9/16" socket, set it for counter clockwise and line it up on the fitting as shown in figure 2. Unscrew the part. You will not need this one again. Cover your exposed pump opening with some tape or something to keep things from getting in it as you work.

3. Take your 3/8" x 1/4" MPT barbed fitting in your fingers and put teflon tape around the threads as shown in Figure 3. Two or 3 wraps around the threads should be sufficient. Too much and you’ll have trouble screwing it into the pump.

4. I personally found that the socket I was using was too shallow to put the new part in. I substituted my 8" adjustable wrench and took my time getting the fitting in. If you have a deeper 9/16" socket there is a little more screwing you can do with the additional leverage afforded by a 1/2" Drive ratchet. I find the 8" wrench sufficient however.

5. Once you have threaded and tightened the new fitting into your pump, it will be normal to have some of the threads exposed as some of the threads were exposed when you opened the pump. You then cut a length of 5/16" vinyl tubing (this size is not 3/8ths for a reason that will become clear later) that you feel is adequate or excess and force one end over the barbed end manually (with your hands) as shown in Figure 5.

Now, your pump is ready for you to add in your gauge! That is another process that will be shared in a future post below this one.

Fascinating. Will be following your thread to see how this works for you.

Nice project.

Have fun with your new set up ;)
I think it will work and of course I wish you great results.

I am really interested in PE4F-style of pumping too, but I might go in a different different direction as I am afraid that the pump is too loud for my living environment (neighbors+pumping at night).

Just looked up the manual pdf of your pump and there is no info about the noise level.
How would you rate it or compare it to ?

If you followed the first post in the thread, you’re moving from that small assembly and working with just your gauge and tubing. The concept of this step is what makes this PE4F system unique. I outline my gauge calibration protocol here in a more recent post more clear: TG’s Inline Gauge Calibration Protocol

Gauge setup parts list

Please note, if you do not purchase this exact setup your hosing and fittings may be all wrong and the system you create will fail to pressurize.

This was something I had to brainstorm and make sure was compatible before venturing in and spending money, and I still have an extra fitting and hosing that is the wrong size. If you cannot find this exact device, you will have to double check all hosing sizes you will use.

1. Gauge setup with equalizer valve- HeatVac Hose and Vacuum Gauge Kit w/ Pump Adapter which I purchased on Amazon here for around $30.

2. Hosing, listed from prior post. 5/16"

Running Total: $166 with 1 prior step in account thus far.

Tools Needed

Utility knife (to remove red silicone hosing from fittings and cut vinyl hosing to desired lengths)

Manual hand strength to force vinyl hosing over brass barbs.

Steps to modify and integrate vacuum gauge into pump system

1. Take the Gauge and tubing out of the packaging and spread it out similar to Figure 1.

2. Mark your hoses in a similar place, along the brass barbs of the fittings in those four (4) places. Do 4 slits and remove the two brass fittings completely from the red hosing.

2b. The one attachment at the extreme end of the hose is not needed, as we have a pump interface that you attached in a previous step already waiting in your pump system. This can be discarded with the red tubing.

3. With your parts now in a state similar to Figure 3, cut two lengths of tubing. One relatively short, that will attach to the top of the 3 barbed fitting and go into your gauge and one relatively long that will attach to one side.

3b. At this point, decide where your pump will be in relation to you when you pump. If the industrial pump will be on your left, place tubing on the right side of the 3 barbed equalizer fitting and make sure your gauge is facing up before attaching any additional tubing. This will leave your left side of the fitting open to attach your pump tubing, which is ready and waiting from the previous step.

Reverse these steps if the pump will be on your right. This will end with you at Figure 4. The side of choice is up to you as stated before.

4. Take your pump tubing, from the end of your first process of readying the industrial pump, and attach it to the side you haven’t used in the equalizer fitting. This will bring you to Figure 5.

At this point you can integrate your male adapter into the end of your tubing and attach your cylinder to the female end!

However, do not attach your cylinder or fitting yet. There is one more step that is very vital to making this setup safe. I will detail it next. It must not be skipped or serious injury will result or failure to pressurize will result.

Careful there, ya mad scientist!

The steps you take in this objective are the most important to your physical safety for PE4F Pumping.

If you omit these or edit these instructions without having deep personal knowledge or experience with PE and Industrial Vacuum pumps you are taking your safety into your own hands and likely to injure yourself.

In this last step, we modify the cylinder and attach our attachments so that it is prepared to safely undertake PE4F Pumping.

The actual mechanism of "PE4F Pumping" is very simple:

You turn on the Industrial Pump, while attached to your cylinder which is over your erection. This is exactly as with normal pumping. Heating pad is optional. The cylinder you are using for this has a 1/8" hole drilled in one side, near the top of the cylinder. This is your safety feature and when you want "Full Vacuum Force" you cover that with your finger for 1 to 20 seconds then release it. The forces exerted while the hole is not covered is below 10HG (and when I fire up my system for the first time, I will edit this post with exactly how much pressure my system generates both with the hole covered and not covered, gauges have never integrated into PE4F pumping until now).

**Edit: System pictured, when 9/64" diameter safety hole is completely open, runs at 4.5Hg according to calibrated integral vacuum gauge system.

You do this for a few minutes at a time, relubricating (with Vaseline as recommended by PEforFun himself) between every 3-10 minutes and cycling as much as you’re comfortable with. This, while it is a brief description, requires several modifications to your cylinder. I will detail those now, because without those modifications you will incur full vacuum pressure with no way to relieve it and also risk extremely serious penis injuries as well as a serious pubic bone bruise from the cylinder being pulled to your body at full vacuum pressure.

Cylinder Modification Parts list

1. Penis Pump cylinder of choice: LeLuv chosen here from eBay, 2.25x12" for $45

*2. Vacu-tech Chrome Female connector Chrome: https://vacutec h.com/product/p … coupler-chrome/ for $25

*3. Vacu-tech Chrome Male connector Chrome without shutoff: https://vacutec h.com/product/p … coupler-chrome/ for $20

4. Teflon tape: From a previous step, should still be available.

5. Padding. You need to pad the flange of the cylinder to prevent cylinder bite. It is up to you what you use to pad with.

6. 1/4" Vinyl tubing, a piece shorter than 6 inches. You can buy it at Vacu-tech by the foot. I had some from this length, from a prior project- Watts SVGE10 Pre-Cut 3/8-Inch Diameter by 1/4-Inch Clear Vinyl Tubing, 10-Foot Length Cost was around $6

7. A single 3/8" to 1/4" Hose Mender: This is needed to splice the cable. One is sold here- LTWFITTING Bar Production Stainless Steel 316 Barb Splicer Mender 3/8" Hose ID x 1/4" for $10

Or you can create a hose mender out of two fittings, which I did and will detail in the post following this one, if you end up at a hardware store and have this option or nothing.

*I picked these fittings up, as high pressure pumping sounds heavy duty and I was likely to shrink the tubing around the male connector, which would apply heat and melt a plastic connector. These are mostly optional, being practical, especially if you attach your male connector to your tubing without any heat.

Running tab of cost of materials: $272

Tools Needed

Drill with 1/8 spiral bit
*Vice (to hold cylinder)
*Rags (as padding to hold cylinder in vice)

*Optional, as the drilling job is minor enough to not need a vice and security beyond that which you can do with your body manually.

Steps to Modify Cylinder for PE4F Use

1. Remove Cylinder from packaging. Gather all materials planned to use. Refer to Figure 1.

2. Drill hole using 1/8th or similar (I used 9/64ths as my 1/8th bit had broken on another project) A vice is not needed. A gentle hand with the drill and holding the cylinder between your knees, kneeling on the floor, is adequate for the seconds it will take to drill through the pliable material. Do not rev the drill hard, there is no need.

2b. Change female connector on cylinder at this time, if you are using the Vacu-tech or another connector that didn’t come on the cylinder. Only finger tight is needed, do not tighten with a tool.

3. In Figure 3 I show a cut section of tubing from another handpump I have on hand. You may have a spool or longer length. You only need about 6" and to connect to the male connector you will use, whether it is plastic or metal. Both are pictured. Only one will be used.

4. Take your short section of 1/4" vinyl tubing and force it onto the male connector. This section will go into the splicer you will need to change the size of the tubing back to 3/8" like the rest of the system. The reason for this is that a male connector will not fit in a 3/8" vinyl tube without slipping out. (I tried several methods, splicing is the ticket).

5. Take your splicer and force the smaller end (1/4") into the vinyl tubing with the male connector. This is shown in Figure 5. After you do this, you have only one connection left to make before the entire pump system is complete and ready for your tube to snap on. That is the 3/8" connection with the pump and gauge waiting that you assembled in the prior two steps.

Now, your system is ready to use. Read up on PE4F pumping and decide on a routine before snapping on a cylinder, kicking the pump on and just making it work. It is still high pressure work and deserves respect and caution.

If you have a hose-mender that came pre-assembled, you don't need to read this post. This is only for people who can't find the exact hose mender they need and need to cobble one together.

I reference in the prior post that I found I had to splice the male connector for the cylinder in using 1/4" Vinyl tubing. This was not originally planned. However, I found that heat would not shrink 5/16ths vinyl tubing enough to hold it firmly. Nor would heat and Teflon tape hold it firm enough for my taste, when melted around the barb of the chrome fitting. And short of using a liquid adhesive and risking it getting sucked into the very powerful pump during operation, I decided to find a splicing method for the tubing that included 1/4" tubing compatible with the mandatory male connector. I linked a reasonable hose mender to splice the hoses the correct way above, in the prior post.

However, when I went to the hardware store they didn’t have a hose mender in the sizes that I needed. What they did have was two pieces that, when combined, would do the exact same job just slightly more sloppy looking but easily as solidly. This is what I used and now, you can see how I made it.

Parts needed

1. Brass Hose Fitting, Adapter, 1/4" Barb x 1/4" NPT Male Pipe Sold here for $4

2. Brass Hose Fitting, Connector, 3/8" Barb x 1/4" Female Pipe Sold here for $4

3. Teflon Tape- Should be on hand from a prior step

Tools needed

8" Adjustable wrench.
Channel Lock (or other pliers/wrench)

Steps to create 3/8x1/4" hose mender workaround

1. Take your 1/4x1/4 Male adapter and teflon tape the threads, as shown in Figure 1.

2. Take the male end of the adapter and thread it into the female end. Start it with your fingers, then grasp it with the tools like in Figure 2.

3. After torquing the two pieces together you have the finished product, which is Figure 3.

With the hose mender assembled, you should be able to complete your Industrial pump system with gauge now.

Bonus Figure- This is a picture of my entire system. It does run, pressurize and depressurize as designed. Resting pressure of my system with safety hole uncovered is exactly 5Hg.

The noise of this pump, when the cylinder is pressurized against the body in some way, is quieter than my space heater. This one is a very small one, only 1/5 Horse Power. So it may be the quietest option you may find.

Thank you very much for the well-wishes.

Stay tuned! Even I’m curious!

That’s what the gauge and clear tubing is all about! I handmade safety into the system and even started with a *slightly* larger than normal safety hole!

SAFETY!!!

Thank you for the kind words, I do plan on taking it easy and slow. Learning the system before running it to the limits.

This pump system that I’ve built is pretty simple, quieter than I thought and not as brutal as expected. Pictures of it on my penis will come tomorrow, likely. I’ll make a test run of it after warming up with my handpump (if I don’t do it tonight).

Sound: It has a hum, a motor hum. Very similar to a refrigerator but not as loud. My space heater is louder and I have no reason to believe someone in the next room could hear the pump over a TV or through more than one wall if I lived in an apartment. The pump also doesn’t sound weird unless you leave the cylinder in the open air as you cut it off (then the sound of the motor cycling down is amplified a tiny bit like the cylinder is a mini-megaphone.) and even that is not terribly loud.

Pressure: It rests at the line just before 5Hg, which I read as 4.5Hg if I have the safety hole uncovered. If I cover the hole with a finger, it goes to about 28Hg, in about 3 seconds and doesn’t seem to go higher.

Tubing: I’ve noticed no bowing of the tubing so switching from the silicone to vinyl for high pressure hasn’t had an adverse effect. Plus, I think the clear tubing is classier looking.

Chrome Male/Female Couplings: They snap together really solidly. The rubber gaskets are generous and seem to snug up the whole lockup of the cylinder very well.

Brass and vinyl Connections: None seem to be leaking or finicky. The gauge is a bit large for the tubing but it has a 3/8” barb and the 3 barbs of the equalizer appear to be 5/16ths and smaller, so that I couldn’t use the larger tubing that I purchased at all.

Oil: The gauge on the side of the pump is not all the way full now. I’ve run it probably a total of 100 seconds and I think the motor merely sucked in an operational amount of oil to run. No fouling or signs of wear yet. The sample bottle that came with the pump appears to be the prescribed amount so when I go to fill the pump, I will likely fill the bottle first then use it to make sure I don’t overfill the pump when maintenance time comes.

Size: The entire apparatus, which is solidly barbed together, can be kept in an area 11x13” or under a desk, if you have a sheet of some sort. It isn’t terribly large or intimidating looking and the pump has a carry handle and is easily carried in one hand. Listed item weight is 14lbs so add about 2lbs for the tube, tubing and fittings and you can probably get the entire thing into a backpack with ease and carry it a long distance or stash it easily.

Cost: The running tab for the exact parts listed in the system as they are for an outsider to build it is around $270 at this point in time. It is not a small investment. It is an entire Penis Enhancement system, this is before adding clamps, heat sources or bend fulcrums. I find the cost to be medium-high, compared to some others like a high class extender of over $300 or high class water pumps like a Bathmate Goliath or Penomet that clock in between $300-350. Usually, people considering this style of pumping have years and thousands of dollars already spent on Penis Enhancement so the cost is offset by a mind that is more amenable to the increased cost of a system like this.

Experience/Ability Concerns: I do find that the requisite skill and experience for this style of pumping is higher than most devices. If you don’t have a year of pumping, with some gains and understanding of successes, losses and injury under your belt I do not think this is a reasonable course of action for you. It ties in to the cost thoughts, where it is an observable trend that mostly experienced PE guys justify the cost of a new, expensive device with the exotic, new and potent force pattern they unlock with a new force generation system. Like the PE4F system detailed here.

Nitpicks: I have spent $80 on pieces that did not end up utilized in the pursuit of the creation of this device. This includes a gauge, tubing, a cylinder, and a brass fitting I have no use for. You really need to be able to envision what exact parts you will need, how they will connect and if they are suitable for the application at hand before purchasing them. Since over 85% of the bits were purchased online, it is very hard to make that judgement without incurring return shipping costs on stuff that isn’t really worth the time and headache to return. I call it living and learning but I find it to be a steep fee for not being smart or experienced enough. And if you are not mechanically savvy, your list of junk you can’t use can easily be larger. This is why I found the lack of information on how to construct a PE4F system infuriating and why I have been meticulous in the creation and notation of my own system.

Other Impressions: The operation of the device is predicated by your finger. If you are quick with it, you’ll never get over 20Hg with this system. As the Cubic Feet Per Minute is only 1.5 and so it takes much more time to reach full pressure compared to a 3 or 4CFM system. If I were to use 2 second pulses I would get high pressure but not the full 28Hg or full vacuum pressure the device is capable of. Bearded Dragon recommended a 1.5CFM pump to me, knowing I wanted to be cautious. I like it so far and will experiment with a 3CFM device depending on how well my adventures with this one end up.

Holy crap. I guess when you’re serious about taking it to the next level you have to have serious equipment to get you there safely. Very meticulous on the equipment side. Well done!!!

I imagine that will be the case too on the protocol. Very intrigued!

I am not an engineer by trade, but I look at everything by the total of its pieces and understanding the gestalt. I found the instructions on PE4F pumping to be sparse, full of gaps that you have to use your own judgement and no gauge integral or considered at all. So for me, the next level of consideration would be upgrading the system concept to something that I personally would use.

I researched a bunch of equipment and methods to connect the vinyl tubing, different gauges I couldn’t figure out at the time and went with the system that was as “All-In-One” as I could find. It took me months of off and on research to convince myself it was viable and go through with it much less the actual cost of the system. So the equipment had to be both top-notch and clearly listed. As, while I’m not a proponent of this system of pumping (at this point anyway, it’s too early to tell) I want people who are going to try it to have the ability to build a feasible, solid and safe system. And that…needed meticulous equipment lists and directions on implementation. This log is as much for the future generations interested in the fabled “PE4F System” as it is for me to notate my own adventures with it.

Any protocols I implement will be thoroughly documented and timed. I’m actually looking at different stop watches to decide exactly how I want to time the pulses I use. This way I can list an exact PE4F routine, which has yet to be listed on site to my knowledge or observation.

Thank you for the compliments, Buckfever.

Fantastic write up!

If I might make a suggestion; your current gauge setup will be accurate when your system is sealed, but with you finger OFF the hole the gauge will read the hose pressure under high flow which is not an accurate reading of pressure in the penis tube.

My suggestion is to drill another hole in the top plate of the penis tube and attach the gauge hose there.

The way it works, I’m pretty sure it’s an equalizer valve, that reads as close as possible cuz it’s supposed to moderate the flow to the tube to an identical point both upward and forwards if my familiarity with the fitting is correct. I can say, from experience, that the pressure with the safety hole uncovered is no more than 5Hg, it may be a bit lower but too much lower and the tube would fall off. It feels like around 5Hg should in my experience, certainly not higher as I experience discomfort around 7.5Hg reliably.

That said, drilling the top of the tube was my first idea. It’s unfeasible because the top of the tube doesn’t have the real estate to acccomodate a hole that a gauge would need. Additionally, no tube maker wants to make a tube with a female attachment point off to one side on the top of the tube, which is the only way a 2” or 2.25” would have the 1/2” of space enough for a hole at the top of the cylinder. Further, even if I drilled it, the gauges tend to be tapped and the barbed ones may not lend themselves to the epoxy I would need to use to secure the gauge.

I considered drilling the side of the tube and thought it would be an additional cost to gauge every tube but it is more feaisble with the 12” LeLuvs than I originally thought. It still would be a project and epoxy, which I’m not a huge fan of. Plus, the cost of this project has spiraled further than I want. Incorporation of my loose gauge still requires me to buy some decent epoxy.

I may drill a tube in the future but unlikely now. The pressure in the tube, when my finger covers the safety hole, should be accurate as the conditions mirror enough of my test protocol that I used to calibrate it and that pressure is more important than the pressure of the tube when my finger is not covering the safety hole.

Thank you for the compliment, RomeoPlus.

Nice inline gauge system. I’m interested what pressure readings you get. Once I’m fully warmed up and expanded, and have the pump at full power, it does feel like about 2 seconds to 29”Hg.

For your oil situation, just slightly above the middle line on that oil level sight glass is where you want your level to be. So it should look half way full. Otherwise it might spit oil out the exhaust while it’s running or spill excess at the wrong angle.