Thunder's Place

The big penis and mens' sexual health source, increasing penis size around the world.

PE4F High Pressure Pumping: thoughtfulgold

◀ 1 34567891011 26 ▶

To thoughtfulgold; Sorry I missed that last post with your question about the brass tube. I just buy small brass tube sizes from the hobby store (RC airplane store etc) and have stocks in my workshop so I choose the brass tube size based on a snug fit INSIDE the hose. So I just glue in the brass tube and leave 5/8” of brass tube sticking out like a “barb” then press the hose on it. 5 minute epoxy is cheap and common and glues acrylic and brass no problem, so the entire drill+glue thing only takes a few minutes. Generally I don’t bother with proper threaded metal fittings, they are bulky, expensive and heavy.

Originally Posted by ErnieBanks
……………
On the question of friction, I must admit it has been awhile since I took Newtonian physics in college. But I remember that friction is measured as a force that resists movement. And the amount of friction is the amount of force that it can resist before it reaches failure. So if your penis can resist slipping at 6” hg, but slips when you go over 7” hg, then you could calculate the force on your penis in PSI at 6” hg, and the force at 7” hg, and know that the friction is between those two numbers.
………….

That all sounds correct, when the skin is adhered to the tube wall you could calculate the friction force by the amount of force you need to apply to break the friction and make it move.
But I believe that once the friction has broken and the skin is sliding on that greasy wall, the friction then has little to no effect and the full piston pull force is applied to the full length of the penis. Then it will settle at the same final length as if the friction was zero or very low. My (crude) measuring experiments at different vacuum settings seem to back that up.

Maybe “sticktion” is a better term than friction? They use that term in suspension mechanics, were the tight rubber seals on the metal suspension tubes cause a sticking effect until enough force is applied to start it moving. And once it starts moving there is a film of grease under the seal so friction is very low once the initial “sticktion” is broken. I think a similar thing happens in pumping; we have a smooth hard surface, a rubbery compliant surface, and grease.

Last edited by RomeoPlus : 01-31-2018 at .

Originally Posted by ErnieBanks
Thanks, TG, for the clear instructions. I had a question about the size of the tubing and the fittings, though.

In Post #1, you tell us to get 5/16” vinyl tubing. In post #4, you get a pressure gauge that uses 3/8” tubing (and fittings). When connecting to the cylinder, you recommend vacutech fittings that use 1/4” tubing. Finally, to make it all work, you then add a 3/8” x 1/4” mender.

The airflow from the pump is going to be limited by the smallest diameter opening. In this case, that is probably the inside diameter of the 1/4” vacutech fittings on the cylinder. If you were to do it all over again, what size tubing and fittings would you recommend? It seems to me that the answer would be to use 1/4” tubing and fittings throughout, but I’m not sure.

Then in the quote below, you mentioned that you spent $80 on parts that you did not use. Are any of the unused parts still included in your instructions?

The problem with 1/4” fittings throughout is that the gauge itself is why fitting and hose size had to change.If you found a gauge that used 1/4” barbs for its fittings you would be in business if you found a pump adapter fitting that was barbed 1/4x1/4” NPT.

Additionally, I could not find a 1/4” barb with 1/4” male fitting that would fit into the pump itself. That was a nonstarter and I knew the next size up would be 3/8” and I made a weighted bet that I would be able to force a 3/8” barb into 5/16” tubing.

Addtionally #2, if you buy the exact gauge I’m playing with, you will find that when you remove the red silicone hosing that it is not exactly 3/8” barbs on both the gauge and the triangle piece. The triangle piece will slip into the 5/16” easier than the gauge barb will. Which leads me to believe that the triangle piece isn’t a true 3/8” barb on any of the three posts. I suspected this and went with 5/16” so that if there was slop in a fitting the hosing would pick up the slack.

Addtionally #3, as far as the hose mender is concerned, there is no way to avoid a 1/4” fitting. As that is the only type that fits on a male cylinder fitting. The theory you espouse as a change to the sytem would require a new gauge of 1/4” barb as well as a 1/4x1/4” NPT fitting to replace directly into the pump. I have found this exact accessory set does not actually exist. If you find that it does, you certainly can make a better calibrated system than the one I created but the one I created was done sheerly out of theory and eyeballing as well as counting on some stretch in the hosing used as I knew it wouldn’t be a perfect system. It took ages to find a barbed gauge even close to the size I knew I could force hosing to fit, THAT was the most pivotal piece and unless you find another gauge…I can’t say the sytsem can be more perfect as the differences in hosing are primarily based around the configuration of the barbs used by the gauge and triangle splitter.

No, none of the unused parts are in my instructions. I made sure of that, as I only wrote the instructions directly after completing each step. So each post, I was putting the pump together and wrote exactly what was used when. You will not buy any extra fittings or hosing.

You pose good questions, Ernie. I hope this post provides clarity. And…Hell, I hope you find the 1/4” setup that makes the entire thing 10x simpler. I did not, hence the workarounds I used.

I wouldn’t do anything different unless parts were readily available that I would find to do the pump system differently.

Now: 9" BPEL x 6.25" MSEG as of 11/10/2019 This is my story, a few progress pics of me here, and all my methods.

Then: 6.25" x 4.37" in 8/2009 Are you new to PE? Here's some advice I wish someone had given me when I first started.

My Extender and forward to 10" and balls enhancement project. There is no "Holy Grail" of Penis Enlargement. Only time and effort works. I'm *10* years in and counting. All you have to do is put the work in and keep the faith.

Originally Posted by RomeoPlus
To thoughtfulgold; Sorry I missed that last post with your question about the brass tube. I just buy small brass tube sizes from the hobby store (RC airplane store etc) and have stocks in my workshop so I choose the brass tube size based on a snug fit INSIDE the hose. So I just glue in the brass tube and leave 5/8” of brass tube sticking out like a “barb” then press the hose on it. 5 minute epoxy is cheap and common and glues acrylic and brass no problem, so the entire drill+glue thing only takes a few minutes. Generally I don’t bother with proper threaded metal fittings, they are bulky, expensive and heavy.

That sounds like a good solution. Just one that wasn’t in the hardware store when I was prowling, looking for something that would make a project hop off of the ground.

Now: 9" BPEL x 6.25" MSEG as of 11/10/2019 This is my story, a few progress pics of me here, and all my methods.

Then: 6.25" x 4.37" in 8/2009 Are you new to PE? Here's some advice I wish someone had given me when I first started.

My Extender and forward to 10" and balls enhancement project. There is no "Holy Grail" of Penis Enlargement. Only time and effort works. I'm *10* years in and counting. All you have to do is put the work in and keep the faith.

Originally Posted by thoughtfulgold
The problem with 1/4” fittings throughout is that the gauge itself is why fitting and hose size had to change.If you found a gauge that used 1/4” barbs for its fittings you would be in business if you found a pump adapter fitting that was barbed 1/4x1/4” NPT.

Additionally, I could not find a 1/4” barb with 1/4” male fitting that would fit into the pump itself. That was a nonstarter and I knew the next size up would be 3/8” and I made a weighted bet that I would be able to force a 3/8” barb into 5/16” tubing.

Addtionally #2, if you buy the exact gauge I’m playing with, you will find that when you remove the red silicone hosing that it is not exactly 3/8” barbs on both the gauge and the triangle piece. The triangle piece will slip into the 5/16” easier than the gauge barb will. Which leads me to believe that the triangle piece isn’t a true 3/8” barb on any of the three posts. I suspected this and went with 5/16” so that if there was slop in a fitting the hosing would pick up the slack.

Addtionally #3, as far as the hose mender is concerned, there is no way to avoid a 1/4” fitting. As that is the only type that fits on a male cylinder fitting. The theory you espouse as a change to the sytem would require a new gauge of 1/4” barb as well as a 1/4x1/4” NPT fitting to replace directly into the pump. I have found this exact accessory set does not actually exist. If you find that it does, you certainly can make a better calibrated system than the one I created but the one I created was done sheerly out of theory and eyeballing as well as counting on some stretch in the hosing used as I knew it wouldn’t be a perfect system. It took ages to find a barbed gauge even close to the size I knew I could force hosing to fit, THAT was the most pivotal piece and unless you find another gauge…I can’t say the sytsem can be more perfect as the differences in hosing are primarily based around the configuration of the barbs used by the gauge and triangle splitter.

(no longer needed)

No, none of the unused parts are in my instructions. I made sure of that, as I only wrote the instructions directly after completing each step. So each post, I was putting the pump together and wrote exactly what was used when. You will not buy any extra fittings or hosing.

You pose good questions, Ernie. I hope this post provides clarity. And…Hell, I hope you find the 1/4” setup that makes the entire thing 10x simpler. I did not, hence the workarounds I used.

I wouldn’t do anything different unless parts were readily available that I would find to do the pump system differently.



I feel like I am picking nits here. But if you made these changes, I expect you’d have a simpler & cleaner design and save about $70. To follow the links, change “xxx” to “www”. Modified parts list:

Same Pump($87): https://xxx.ama … /dp/B005CO9FDW/
Same Oil ($28): https://xxx.ama … /dp/B001UH3L8K/
1/4” Tubing ($7): https://xxx.ama … /dp/B000HE5DUG/
1/4” NPTx1/4” barb Replacement Fitting ($3): https://xxx.ama … /dp/B002SAO7XQ/

Vac Gauge ($20):
Gauge: https://xxx.ama … /dp/B00VQSP2XA/
1/4” NPT x 1/4” barb fitting https://xxx.ama … /dp/B002SAO7XQ/ (need 2)
1/4” NPT x 1/4” NPT x 1/4” NPT T-fitting: https://xxx.ama … /dp/B000BQUTBS/

Hose Mender: not needed

LeLuv 2”x12” Cylinder: ($45): https://xxx.ama … /dp/B00E4YQHJQ/
LeLuv Cylinder Connector ($11): https://xxx.ama … /dp/B01JMJ0HYI/

You don’t need a hose mender, because we’re using 1/4” vinyl tubing throughout.

Not included in this list:

teflon pipe thread sealing tape
1/8” drill for cylinder vent hole
cylinder cushion (probably very important)

Total cost is about $200, plus shipping & tax. If you choose the leluv cylinder, you may find better pricing or more choices at the “leluv store” on ebay.

I hope I didn’t forget anything :)

Live long and prosper.

Well, firstly, I’m impressed. I did not have full understanding of the thing I wanted to build at first. Let me also give you a bit more of my logic.

As I did not have a really good idea of how an "in-line" gauge would work, I bought one that had its own T fitting and hosing because I knew it was designed to do what I wanted to do. I had theorized that I could not know if the T fitting included with the gauge was an equalizer fitting or not. After running a calibration test and playing with the pump a few times I concluded, after I had already bought the $30 in line gauge set, that buying a gauge and a T fitting would have been fine. However, at the time of the inception of this project into my mind I did not have this knowledge.

Otherwise, instead of searching for an all in one gauge and T fitting set for inline use I could have picked a gauge and T fitting and cobbled it together from there. My criteria for a gauge was very particular as I didn’t understand this equipment very well prior to me building this project. As I got further along, I understood it better but I did not look back and search out an additional gauge in 1/4" with a T fitting. It did not cross my mind as my setup appears to work fine.

I can modify, with your links, my existing setup with 3 fittings, a new gauge, and 1/4" hosing throughout. About $40 or so.

Which brings me to my chief question here. Since my system has a few extra links and the splice down to 1/4" tubing right at the cylinder…what kind of erroneous pressure readings would I get? Would it be more or less than the actual pressure? What other effects would it have? I am not a vacuum expert and am interested in this information, especially if it compromises my safety in any way.

***Why do we need two of these? https://xxx.ama … /dp/B002SAO7XQ/ I see you have it listed at 2, and with your modifications…unless you can fit it directly into the cylinder itself…you would only need one.

**Answered, after following T link. I see how you would be able to do this. I actually have a gauge already that would fit into that T, so the bulk of the cost is neglible.

Originally Posted by ErnieBanks

I feel like I am picking nits here. But if you made these changes, I expect you’d have a simpler & cleaner design and save about $70. To follow the links, change "xxx" to "www". Modified parts list:

Same Pump($87): https://xxx.ama … /dp/B005CO9FDW/
Same Oil ($28): https://xxx.ama … /dp/B001UH3L8K/
1/4" Tubing ($7): https://xxx.ama … /dp/B000HE5DUG/
1/4" NPTx1/4" barb Replacement Fitting ($3): https://xxx.ama … /dp/B002SAO7XQ/

Vac Gauge ($20):
Gauge: https://xxx.ama … /dp/B00VQSP2XA/
1/4" NPT x 1/4" barb fitting https://xxx.ama … /dp/B002SAO7XQ/ (need 2)
1/4" NPT x 1/4" NPT x 1/4" NPT T-fitting: https://xxx.ama … /dp/B000BQUTBS/

Hose Mender: not needed

LeLuv 2"x12" Cylinder: ($45): https://xxx.ama … /dp/B00E4YQHJQ/
LeLuv Cylinder Connector ($11): https://xxx.ama … /dp/B01JMJ0HYI/

You don’t need a hose mender, because we’re using 1/4" vinyl tubing throughout.

Not included in this list:

teflon pipe thread sealing tape
1/8" drill for cylinder vent hole
cylinder cushion (probably very important)

Total cost is about $200, plus shipping & tax. If you choose the leluv cylinder, you may find better pricing or more choices at the "leluv store" on ebay.

I hope I didn’t forget anything :)

Now: 9" BPEL x 6.25" MSEG as of 11/10/2019 This is my story, a few progress pics of me here, and all my methods.

Then: 6.25" x 4.37" in 8/2009 Are you new to PE? Here's some advice I wish someone had given me when I first started.

My Extender and forward to 10" and balls enhancement project. There is no "Holy Grail" of Penis Enlargement. Only time and effort works. I'm *10* years in and counting. All you have to do is put the work in and keep the faith.

Last edited by thoughtfulgold : 01-31-2018 at . Reason: ***Question-**answered

I think the gauge would give you a pretty accurate reading where ever you put it. It might be a little more accurate if it is close to the cylinder, but I doubt it would matter much.

I think it is easier to think about the problem if you imagine we’re pumping water instead of air. In my house, the water pressure is supplied by the pipe from the street, and the pressure is very similar no matter where I go in my home. In this pump setup, the pressure is supplied by the vacuum pump, and the pressure in the system is pretty similar, no matter where you put the gauge.

Live long and prosper.

Last edited by ErnieBanks : 01-31-2018 at .

Originally Posted by ErnieBanks
I think the gauge would give you an accurate reading where ever you put it, but might be a little more accurate if it is closer to the cylinder.

I think it is easier to think about the problem if you imagine we’re pumping water instead of air. In my house, the water pressure is supplied by the pipe from the street, and the pressure is very similar no matter where I go in my home. In this pump setup, the pressure is supplied by the vacuum pump, and the pressure in the system is pretty similar, no matter where you put the gauge.

Well I have a basic understanding of engineering of all kinds I’m going to ask for the layperson view here. As

Is the uneven way that I have run the tubing with the hose mender and the splicing going to affect any of the pressure readings or my relative safety in usage compared to if I ran the entire system in 1/4 inch tubing and fittings?

I am willing to redo the system if there is any actual useful reason for me to do so. But, I certainly do not have infinite funds and Amazon likes eating my money. *chuckles* Just making 100% sure here.

Now: 9" BPEL x 6.25" MSEG as of 11/10/2019 This is my story, a few progress pics of me here, and all my methods.

Then: 6.25" x 4.37" in 8/2009 Are you new to PE? Here's some advice I wish someone had given me when I first started.

My Extender and forward to 10" and balls enhancement project. There is no "Holy Grail" of Penis Enlargement. Only time and effort works. I'm *10* years in and counting. All you have to do is put the work in and keep the faith.

I managed to pull this off with a Mityvac and some serious carpal tunnel. I can get the pressure up to 20hg and hold there for a minute. I do it about 5 minutes into my workout and it helps “seat” the tube. I could do this way faster if I could use my mouth to get up to 5hg but I’m waiting in parts to get my auto shut off up and running again

What usually happens is that throughout my workout I slowly get sucked more and more into the tube and I have to adjust the pressure every few minutes. After hitting 20hg my pressure stays a lot more stable. I try not to get out of the tube, but just lower the pressure enough that it doesn’t fall off for a few mins then pump back up to 5hg.

I didn’t have a gauge when I started but I know from feel that I would pump anywhere from 8 to 10hg and sometimes higher. My 2.5 cylinder has measurements along the side in metric so I would see myself millimeters from 19cm and over pump to hit it just for a few seconds. Now that I pump at lower hg I can pump for way longer and see gains that last into the next day. I don’t have any cushions for my stj+long Johnny but I have a really nice ox balls juicy for my 2.5 that saves my balls from getting sucked into the tube but also gives me bad gator bite so I ditch it halfway to pump the base of my cock too.

You have a steady state closed system and the pressure is constant no matter where you put the gauge.

The primary goal of PE should be to make your penis as healthy as possible in both form and function. If you do that, increased size will follow.

Originally Posted by thoughtfulgold
Well I have a basic understanding of engineering of all kinds I’m going to ask for the layperson view here. As

Is the uneven way that I have run the tubing with the hose mender and the splicing going to affect any of the pressure readings or my relative safety in usage compared to if I ran the entire system in 1/4 inch tubing and fittings?

I am willing to redo the system if there is any actual useful reason for me to do so. But, I certainly do not have infinite funds and Amazon likes eating my money. *chuckles* Just making 100% sure here.

I don’t think it matters at all. Keep your money and use what you have! :) How is your injury coming along?

Live long and prosper.

Originally Posted by gprent
You have a steady state closed system and the pressure is constant no matter where you put the gauge.

More terms for me to research. I have to say vacuum and air pressure are on the list of my blindsides…I appreciate the knowlege gprent.

Now: 9" BPEL x 6.25" MSEG as of 11/10/2019 This is my story, a few progress pics of me here, and all my methods.

Then: 6.25" x 4.37" in 8/2009 Are you new to PE? Here's some advice I wish someone had given me when I first started.

My Extender and forward to 10" and balls enhancement project. There is no "Holy Grail" of Penis Enlargement. Only time and effort works. I'm *10* years in and counting. All you have to do is put the work in and keep the faith.

Originally Posted by ErnieBanks
I don’t think it matters at all. Keep your money and use what you have! :) How is your injury coming along?

Thank you for me and the crackpots who followed my instructions sake. *chuckles*

Reasonably well. Tomorrow should have a picture that’s mostly restored coloration. I would still say PE4F is a day 30 not day 20 experiment at best though. *chuckles*

Now: 9" BPEL x 6.25" MSEG as of 11/10/2019 This is my story, a few progress pics of me here, and all my methods.

Then: 6.25" x 4.37" in 8/2009 Are you new to PE? Here's some advice I wish someone had given me when I first started.

My Extender and forward to 10" and balls enhancement project. There is no "Holy Grail" of Penis Enlargement. Only time and effort works. I'm *10* years in and counting. All you have to do is put the work in and keep the faith.

A vacuum is still a pressure. It is just a lower pressure than atmospheric.

The primary goal of PE should be to make your penis as healthy as possible in both form and function. If you do that, increased size will follow.

Originally Posted by gprent
You have a steady state closed system and the pressure is constant no matter where you put the gauge.

Agreed! Pressure is equal at all points within a closed system.

However with his thumb off the hole, the gauge reads the pressure (vacuum) from the T-fitting, while there is a significant airflow through the fitting and hoses. Because of venturi effect and other issues with fast moving gas the gauge won’t be giving the desired reading of the pressure within the penis tube, which is a reading that thoughtfulgold said he wanted as well.

Putting a separate gauge hose directly into the penis tube should give a much more accurate reading of the tube cavity pressure when his finger is off the hole and there is airflow. Ideally the gauge hose fitting should be in a position away from the direct airflow path.

To RiseAboveMorty; You are pumping at 20 inHg in a 2.5 inch ID tube? Ouch! Be very careful about over-inflation injury, you can easily rupture your tunica or buck’s fascia, or even blow-out the CC’s internal rib walls and look like Shane Diesel’s left CC. If you are pumping at an inflated size of 8x7 that is 56 square inches of penis girth area, and 20 inHg is approx 10 PSI, so you are getting 560 pounds (!) of girth sretch force applied to your inflated penis. And if you get close to a pack on that 2.5” tube that means pumping near 8x8, which would be 640 pounds of force!

I strongly advise using a tube size only a tiny bit wider than your normal erect size, so that you cannot be over-inflated with massive force. Please think about this!

Originally Posted by RomeoPlus
Agreed! Pressure is equal at all points within a closed system.

However with his thumb off the hole, the gauge reads the pressure (vacuum) from the T-fitting, while there is a significant airflow through the fitting and hoses. Because of venturi effect and other issues with fast moving gas the gauge won’t be giving the desired reading of the pressure within the penis tube, which is a reading that thoughtfulgold said he wanted as well.

Putting a separate gauge hose directly into the penis tube should give a much more accurate reading of the tube cavity pressure when his finger is off the hole and there is airflow. Ideally the gauge hose fitting should be in a position away from the direct airflow path.

To RiseAboveMorty; You are pumping at 20 inHg in a 2.5 inch ID tube? Ouch! Be very careful about over-inflation injury, you can easily rupture your tunica or buck’s fascia, or even blow-out the CC’s internal rib walls and look like Shane Diesel’s left CC. If you are pumping at an inflated size of 8x7 that is 56 square inches of penis girth area, and 20 inHg is approx 10 PSI, so you are getting 560 pounds (!) of girth sretch force applied to your inflated penis. And if you get close to a pack on that 2.5” tube that means pumping near 8x8, which would be 640 pounds of force!

I strongly advise using a tube size only a tiny bit wider than your normal erect size, so that you cannot be over-inflated with massive force. Please think about this!

Pretty sure your physics is based on wrong assumptions when it comes to the penis and what pressures act on it in what way. It’s pretty self explanatory your numbers are obviously not happening.

Top
◀ 1 34567891011 26 ▶

All times are GMT. The time now is 01:44 PM.